The Sun rises again for us all

Tags

art., Food, Friends, happiness, life, Music, New, year

The Sun appears as the Earth rotates for a new day. May 2020 bring you many good things in your life and that of your friends and family. Thank you for reading my blog and for commenting. Though I may not know all of you, I know some and through this journey we have become friends.

I also look forward to reading the blogs of those I follow and those I will discover in time.

All the best to you all. BONNE ANNÉE!! Meilleurs Voeux!!

 

Things in the future

Tags

art., Berlin, Germany, Humboldt Forum, James Simon

Today I got my certificate for bartending from the PEI Liquor Control Commission. Why on Earth would I want to do that? Well I thought it would be a practical thing to have, I do not intend to work in a bar but at the Club if we should have a last minute emergency then I could help out. I got a 90% success rate on my exam. Because of my family hotel background I have worked in Hotels in Europe and North America while I was still in school. It was a good thing to learn and my work experience has stayed with me all these years. Doing the exam was easy, a lot of the concepts I understood and knew, so this is just another feather in my cap.

So I have been surfing the net for pictures of another topic I have been watching for more than 20 years. That is the reconstruction of the City of Berlin, both the East and West sector of what was once a divided city. There are  several blogs both in German and in English on reconstruction in the German Capital.

It is interesting to read about the work of artists, stone masons, archivists, historians and politicians. Some very good photos are taken to show what is being done. Historical places are being re-born some 75 years after they were destroyed by war.

Many other cities in Germany have been through a re-birth since reunification in 1989. Dresden, Potsdam, Hamburg, Frankfurt, etc. In all cases armies of artisans are at work and the public not only in Germany but in the world give donations to help with the restoration efforts, the EU and the Federal Government of Germany are actively involved.

But while many historical buildings are being re-built, they are not returning to their old usage or made up to look like museums to life under the Hohenzollern Dynasty. In most cases the interior of such buildings are totally re-imagine to fit into our world today.  The Humboldt Forum will be housed in the newly re-built Imperial City Palace,  the outside is the original  Baroque architecture but the landscaping around it will be reflecting a modern urban green landscape, recently Honey Locust Trees measuring 5 meters have planted on the North Side of the Palace. The inside is ultra-modern and will be a museum to World civilization.  The Princesses Palais built in 1773 and destroyed in 1944 was rebuilt and is now called Palais Populaire. Again the outside is original Baroque reflecting the other building around it, but the inside will be presenting modern contemporary art. Many churches have also been rebuilt on the outside in the original style of the 18th century to reflect their history but the inside is modern to reflect what happened and what lesson to draw from destruction and war.  Few in Germany today wish to celebrate either the Bismarck era or the two disastrous world wars. Germany today looks forward with a progressive view of itself. Along Unter Den Linden, a palatial avenue with the Fredericanus Forum, which is an ensemble of buildings on the avenue  built at the time of the reign of Frederick II the Great, so every building has his imprint. The Zeughaus or Arsenal is a pinkish baroque building, now the German History Museum, the State Opera c.1742, recently renovated is also in that pink colour with baroque statues. Other palaces like the one occupied by Prince Henry, brother of Frederick II is the seat of the Humboldt University since 1810. So in many ways Berlin is not what people expect, it is a city of the Arts, music (techno is very popular) and Culture, parks, lakes and greenery.

So here goes:

The dome of the City Palace under completion, a little film about it explains that each sheet of copper some 1000 square meters of it  must be hammered into place, it should be completed in about a month. Then the great lantern will be brought by helicopter to be installed on top, that should be quite the feat of engineering given its size. The same was done in Dresden for the lantern of the FrauenKirche at 80 meters above ground.

One of the honey locust trees being re-planted on the North Side of the reconstructed City Palace now called Humboldt Forum slated to open in October 2020. Trees did grow in that area prior to 1939.

Immediately across the street is the Lutheran Cathedral and the Lust Garten and 5 museums. One new museum has opened in the last few months, the James Simon Museum dedicated to the collection of James Simon (1851-1932) who was a great benefactor to the Berlin Museums through his lavish donations. The famous Nefertiti bust was a gift from James Simon and is on display in the gallery amongst many precious objects he donated. His family were Jewish entrepreneurs in cotton and textiles. He was also an advisor to Kaiser Wilhelm II on art and archeology.

Many of the works of reconstruction or new buildings are the work of non-german architects like David Chipperfield, Franco Stella or Norman Foster. They bring a new modern view and an international spirit, a goal the Federal Government of Germany is pursuing.

The James Simon Gallery in front of the Neues Museum rebuilt and re-interpreted by David Chipperfield. This international spirit also extends to museum directors like Neil MacGregor Director of the Humboldt Forum formerly of the British Museum. He has recently retired and replaced by Hartmut Dorgerloh formerly of the Prussian Palaces and Garden Foundation.

I really like Berlin for all that it has to offer and for its atmosphere, a very dynamic city.

 

 

Gottlob! Nun Geht das Jahr zu Ende

Tags

Bach, Gottlob! nun geht das Jahr zu Ende, Holiday, life, Music, Year end

Francis Reddy who host Les Saisons de Francis, a classical music program on Radio-Canada from Montreal on the weekend, was playing some J.S. Bach this morning and I was listening to a piece played by Wilhelm Kempff (1895-1991). Piano music in the early morning is nice to listen to and in this case Bach is perfect for the title of this blog entry ”Thank God the year is ending”

What did 2019 bring, nothing bad really, it was a quiet year, there was some turbulence in June and lots of cold rainy weather until mid-July which affected the number of tourists coming here, which is a blessing in a way. We travelled to The Netherlands, Norway and London, a very nice trip.

I had some health problems, all resolved now. For my Birthday in March we travelled to Halifax, which is close to us and an easy drive. You can say that this sea port is somewhat of a metropolitan area for the Maritimes. Halifax alone is more than 10 times the population of Charlottetown and has an international airport. I gave 2 lectures on Government House and its history dating back to William IV. In June we travelled to Ottawa, Will attended a conference of the Symphonic Orchestras of Canada and we revisited the sites and new developments in the City. Was impressed by the renovations to the National Arts Centre and those made at the National Gallery of Canada, it renews those two institutions and brings a new perspective on Music and the Arts. The New Canadian Gallery at the National Gallery of Canada is spectacular and so well curated.

I was also able to visit in Amsterdam the Rijks Museum, spending 2 days to really have a good look around, that place made me very happy to be surrounded by so much beauty and so well displayed and presented.

In the Fall we had a gala for the PEI Symphony at Dalvay by the Sea, this beautiful Summer home built in 1895 in Queen Anne Style which is now a Manor style hotel with a good restaurant, the house has been beautifully preserved and is owned by Parks Canada. Had never walked on the beach in October on a Sunny day and a brisk Atlantic wind, it was fun.

There were many other events during the year too many to name but all in all it was a good year.  As for this blog, well I was all over the map with various topics as the mood strikes me. I have been at it for more than 14 years now but I cannot remember exactly when I started it, I was not always on WordPress and migrated with the years.

On this year end I think of the music heard from Austria, Vienna with its end of year concerts and New Year Day concert from the 1870 Musikverein Concert Hall and its famous Golden Room. The New Year’s day concert are heard since 1939.  This year Maestro Andris Nelsons will conduct the Vienna Symphonic Orchestra.

This piece who bears the headline of this blog entry I chose for today,

Composed by J.S. Bach, Cantata for the First Sunday after Christmas (30 December 1725)

Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra & Choir Ton Koopman,  Deborah York, soprano,

Aria (soprano): Gottlob! nun geht das Jahr zu Ende

 

Continuing to read

Tags

history, Romanov, Russia, St-Petersburg, Tsarkoye Selo

One of the many interest I have is too look at cities who have gone through calamities of war or natural disasters and see how they re-built or re-imagined their cities. Europe some 75 years ago saw the end of the Second World War leaving behind millions of dead, shattered lives and countries, refugees looking for a new start like in Canada and ruined cities now under the grip of new political masters.

Russia in 1917 went through the social upheaval of a disastrous engagement into the First World War and falling into the hands of murderous politicians who in 70 years of rule manage to kill 40 million of its own citizens through repression. A way of life was scrubbed out completely. Since 1999 and the assent to power of Vladimir Putin, a movement has been in full swing to bring back the past of Tsarist Russia for commercial and tourist reasons. It also helps to promote Nationalism in Russia by bringing back old symbols and monuments.

Just 30 Km outside of St-Petersburg is the royal settlement of Tsarkoye Selo (Tsar’s village) a collection of palaces, cathedrals, train station, academies and barracks devoted to creating a place for Russian royalty to live and play far from the hoi polloi, it event has its own gate in Pharaonic Style on the main road from St-Petersburg.

Built in 1827 by Adam Adamovich Menelaws in egyptian revival style.

At the end of the Second World War the German army had inflicted massive damage to Tsarkoye Selo, burning down palaces and destroying parks, what the Russian government could not take away before the German advanced on the area was either stolen and brought back to Germany or simply vandalized.  When visiting St-Petersburg and Tsarkoye Selo today has been re-built and renovated by an army of artists and artisans doing meticulous work in re-creating palaces of the 17th century. Luckily voluminous archives existed to help in this work. Fragments also survived sometimes surprising the restorers. Most if not all the Palaces in Tsarkoye Selo where built by Italian architects who brought with them that style of architecture so coveted by the Russian Aristocracy.

One palace which is being re-built since 2005 is the Alexander palace which stands in a vast park across the street from the Great Catherine Palace most visitors are more familiar with.

The Alexander Palace (New Tsarskoselsky) was presented as a gift by Catherine II to her eldest grandson, the future Emperor Alexander I, on the occasion of his marriage to Grand Duchess Elizabeth Alexeevna. According to the idea of Catherine II, the palace had to be similar to the château at Ferney, where the great thinker of that time – Voltaire – lived. But in 1792 the architect Giacomo Quarenghi presented another project to the Empress and convinced her of its advantage. The palace construction was completed in May of 1796, and in June the then Grand Duke Alexander, his spouse Elizabeth and his Court moved into the New Palace.

The Alexander Palace in the classical style is considered to be the pearl among all the creations of Giacomo Quarenghi.

The Alexander Palace was a summer home for the Imperial Family in the 19th century, but it became a real home for the last Russian Emperor Nicholas II and his wife Alexandra during the last 13 years of their reign. From this palace the family of Nicholas II was arrested and sent into exile in Tobolsk and ultimately to their deaths in July 1917.

In 1918 the Alexander Palace was opened to visitors as a state museum. The display included the historic interiors in the central part of the building and the living apartments of the Romanov family in the east wing of the palace.

Later the left wing was turned into a rest home for the  Secret Police NKVD, while on the second floor of the right wing the former rooms of Nicholas II’s children became an orphanage named the “Young Communards”.

In the first months prior to the Nazi invasion chandeliers, carpets, some items of furniture, eighteenth-century marble and porcelain articles were evacuated from the Alexander Palace. Most of the palace furnishings remained in the halls.

During the occupation the palace housed the German army staff and the Gestapo. The cellars became a prison and the square in front of the palace a cemetery for members of the SS. In 1951 a Soviet government decision handed the Alexander Palace to the Naval Department of the USSR, while the palace’s surviving furniture went to the Pavlosk Palace nearby where much of the collections remain to this day. In late 2009, the palace recovered its museum status and restoration work started and continues to this day, it is to be completed in 2021. It will then be a memorial to Tsar Nicholas II his wife Alexandra and 5 children, a rather sad place knowing their fate.

Here are some recent photos of the work in progress, it is truly remarkable, careful and  meticulous work.

An old photo of the Palace in 1945 after the German retreat. The Palace is heavily damaged and the park surrounding it destroyed.

The reconstructed and redecorated Imperial Bed Chamber of Nicholas and Alexandra. All this fabric was reproduced from original supplies saved and stored at Pavlosk Palace and Gatchina Palace in 1939 by the then Curators of the palace. You can see the view from the bed looking straight out towards the windows. You also have to remember that when the reconstruction of the Palace started the walls were bare and damaged nothing else existed. Russian television was filming for the news broadcast.

Here is the Palisandre or Rose wood drawing room of Her Majesty. Again recreation of this room was done from many photographs prior to 1914 when the Imperial Family lived in the Palace. Everything had to be rebuilt, the rose wood paneling, the fireplace, the silk wallpaper, the curtains, floors and all the ceiling decoration.

The study of the Tsar, rebuilt completely and not quite finished an exact replica of the original. Still the furniture that was salvaged and evacuated for safe keeping in 1939 can be brought back to the palace. The Chandelier will be reproduced and re-installed.

The Mauve boudoir of Her Majesty, reproduced including the furniture from photographs and archive material. Missing at the moment the fireplace which will be re-installed.

One of the more fascinating room of the Palace, the Turkish Bathroom of the Tsar. The room was destroyed during the war and only a few tiles survived. With the fragments artists reproduced them all, including the re-built fireplace in front of which is a huge pool filled with sea water and the beautiful wood work.

Close-up look of the fireplace with the bronze covering, a work of art.

this photo shows what the palace looked like prior to 2005 when little had been done. These rooms are not part of the imperial suite and will be rebuilt but probably used as office space for the curators of the palace.

Detail of the curtains made for the mauve drawing room. The original fabric was saved in parts in the archives. Incredible amount of work has gone into reproducing original material.

The ceiling area with its original decorations reproduced by artisans.

the Maple Drawing-Room’s wooden decoration elements! Behold, the finial of the newel post (and the beginnings of the staircase) that will be installed for the room’s Entresol (Mezzanine) and staircase. All hand carved.

The Maple Drawing-room is probably one of the more famous rooms of the palace and was photographed many times while the Imperial family still lived in the Palace and again after 1919 when the palace became a museum. The room was completely destroyed during the war, nothing survived except for some small pieces of furniture and objects which had been taken away by the curators for safe keeping.

 One of the few surviving pieces of furniture from the Her Majesty’s apartments. This chair in particular, comes from the shared Bedchambre of Their Majesties. It still sports its original chintz upholstery which is damaged, the pink ribbon has all but faded but the wreathes are still there. You can see the damaged, white enameled woodwork as well. It’s amazing to know that even after the War, things like this were somehow saved.

Photo by Andrei Zeest taken in 1917 before the Imperial family was arrested and exiled of the Maple Drawing room. The room was totally destroyed and in currently under reconstruction and will by 2021 look again as it does in this old photo. Recently the metal box containing the plants and made of copper re-surfaced, it was kept with other objects at Pavlosk Palace.

Today still under reconstruction the Maple Drawing room. The plaster work of rose vines all around the ceiling and other decorative elements being recreated is a huge task.

An artist here working on the plaster work in the Maple Drawing room, delicate painstaking work.

Soviet staff visiting the palace after the war, damage is apparent in this room. It will be interesting to visit the Alexander Palace in 2021 when all the restoration work is complete. It will in all likely hood be a huge draw given how popular the tragic figures of the Tsar and his family have become in Russia and elsewhere. Now acknowledge by the State as victims of Bolchevik terror and canonized as Holy Martyrs by the Russian Orthodox Church, the Alexander Palace could become a pilgrimage site like other sites in Russia where the family was imprisoned and killed.

Lunedi Lunacy

Tags

Cossaque, Holiday, London, tradition, Xmas Crackers

From Will’s Blog on our tradition of Xmas Crackers at the table.

via Lunedi Lunacy

As the year ends

Tags

2020, age, levee, New Year, PEI, seniors, tradition, Travel

Well now we look at the New Year 2020, what will it bring, who knows.  My only wish is really for good health, because if you are in good health then you can do pretty much anything. For me this new decade means I will truly be in my so called golden years.

I still do want to travel to cities like Berlin in 2021 and maybe to other European countries, but has one ages the window of opportunity for travel closes and it becomes more difficult to travel given the stresses involved nowadays. I also have to look at priorities, living on this small island, spend more time going to the beach, visiting the Maritimes, going to Nova Scotia and Cape Breton all of which is very close to us. As for my volunteer activities, I may become more picky about it, I really don’t want to spend an entire Summer doing guided tours at the Art Gallery, there are other things to do.

This week between Christmas Day and New Year’s Day is always a bit of a loss, people are away on vacation or visiting family. Then the question is what to do with New Year’s Eve, well frankly speaking we do not have any plans and not sure we want any. We are in no mood to go to a pub to listen to some music with a rowdy crowd. Maybe these parties are for the under 40 crowd or go to a restaurant for more rich food, we have a fridge full of food. The big day is Wednesday 1 January for the Levée activities, this is a very big thing in PEI and everyone participates, it is rare to find someone who does not partake in visiting all the different Levée held not only around Charlottetown but in other towns and communities on the Island.  The tradition of the Levée, a French word meaning to rise, dates back to Louis XIV, the Sun King, who made his courtiers attend his rising every morning, if you missed that event you were banished. With time the tradition transformed itself into this event on New Year’s Day where the population comes to pay their respect to the personal representative of the Sovereign in PEI, the Lieutenant Governor and to other elected Officials Civic and Military.  Anyone can hold a Levée, if you are willing to put up with the crowds. Government House will see about 700 people, our Club will have about 500 people show up.

This 1 January I will be at the Haviland Club in the greeting party to welcome all the visitors to our Club. Our time slot is 11am to 1pm. Many will go to pay their respect to the Lieutenant Governor at Government House at Fanningbank first and then wander down to the other venues like the PEI Regiment barracks to see the Military Commander, to City Hall to see the Mayor, to the Fire Hall, to the Premier’s Office, etc… Everyone offers a drink, a piece of cake and coffee.

Government House, Charlottetown, PEI.

The Haviland Club, Charlottetown, PEI.

WISHING EVERYONE A HAPPY AND PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR 2020. BONNE ANNÉE!

Another Christmas

Tags

Family, life, Noël, partner

So it has been 63 Christmases for me, in the last 42 years Will and I celebrated Christmas in many different countries and Capitals. Today at lunch with friends in our home here in Charlottetown, looking about the wonderful table and the good conversation I thought to myself how fortunate I am. Will prepared yet again an incredible meal, so much hard work and attention to details, everything was perfect. All our Christmas or celebrations have always a special something, it’s an event thanks to him.

But more to the point, what crossed my mind was the fact that we had one more beautiful Christmas ”en famille” and I am a lucky guy in many ways and appreciated today this special moment like so many others in our years together.  Today was our third Christmas here in PEI and despite moment of wondering why we were here, we are now established and have a network of friends. Appreciate what you have and think that so many do not have as much. Appreciate your life partner and how that person enriches your life in so many ways and today is a day to reflect on this while the city is quiet.

Christmas at home in Charlottetown 2019. 

 

Spices

Tags

Austria, Fortunoff, Germany, Holiday, Juniper, NYC, PEI, Salzburg, spices, Sterling silver

In our Household I do all the shopping, Mr Will does most of the cooking and baking. He gives me the lists of ingredients, some rare and obscure even Gourmet magazine has not thought of it.

This means that on our small island sometimes shopping for ingredients can be difficult and challenging. Since 2010 things have improved a lot and though the native diet is not sophisticated it is improving with the constant flow of Canadians arriving here to settle and introducing a more cosmopolitan gourmet cuisine.

This month I was able to persuade the manager of our grocery store (it’s a national chain) that he should import veal since I knew that out of province stores had it. Next comes spices. Today Chef Will suddenly announced that in a burst of inspiration he was thinking of a new recipe and he needed Star anise and Cardamon seeds. These are two spices common everywhere in Canada except here in PEI land of potatoes.

Cardamon is a wonderful and versatile spice, I remember in the Middle East how it finds its way into coffee making and gives the most wonderful flavour. I finally found both spices at the Bulk Barn, though when I asked the clerk about it, he had no idea what I was talking about. This happens a lot here, radicchio is confused with red cabbage, NOT the same thing, but hey I am not complaining at the check out I pay for cabbage instead of radicchio a difference of $3.00 in price.

Last week I was looking for Juniper Berries, commonly used to make gin. Given that PEI has a big gin industry and produces its own 50 Proof Island Gin you would think that Juniper berries is a common staple, NOT so, it is not.  Luckily for us a friend had some on hand but she had bought them off Island. Chef Will needed them to make Potted Pork with Juniper berries. I helpfully suggested that we use Holly berries nice bright and red instead, festive looking. I was told they are poisonous and would kill off our guests, that would be most inconvenient  I presume.

Everything is closed solid as of 24, 25 and 26 December and same for 31 Dec and 1 Jan. it will be very quiet and am happy for it.

Here are some photos of heirlooms.

From Fortunoff on 5th Ave. NYC, a gift from my little sister in 1983 when I joined the Foreign Service. It has travelled with me all around the world.

Press glass punch bowl c. 1926, a wedding gift of Will’s parents. It is heavy and festive looking. Will be used for a red wine punch tomorrow for our Christmas Eve party.

Wood Nutcracker, hand painted made in the GDR (East Germany) 1982. I got him in Ottawa at a wonderful German Deli, now closed, back in those days the shop owners would import the most beautiful traditional German Christmas ornaments and he was in the window.
He travelled quite a bit with us all around the world and always appear at Christmas time. It is difficult today to find such nice wood sculpted Nutcrackers.

Austrian Tin hand painted Christmas tree and old St-Nick on his horse. We found this in Salzburg while attending the Music Festival in May each year. We use to take the train in Rome and travel up to Austria via the Brenner pass to Innsbruck and then Salzburg. There is a shop in a covered alley with all manner of traditional Tin figurines, it is really an art form made by the Wilhelm Schweizer co. in Diessen, Germany.

Our home terrace in Rome on Via dei Villini at Christmas time in 2009. We had lots of plants and this area was in a big park with lots of Maritime pines all around.

Christmas 2008 Rome, at home on Via dei Villini. Our tree then was 8 feet tall since the ceilings were taller.

Salzburg in Winter during the Mozart week with the river Salzach and the Archbishop’s castle on the hill, in 2010. It is a very small town and an easy walk.

 

The bucket list

Tags

Friends, Holiday, home, memories, Music, New Year, Travel

In the 1980’s the expression my bucket list started to appear in conversations when people spoke of things they wanted to do or visit. Then silly lists started to appear of the 10 things you had to see or do before you died. The expression the bucket list is now part of general conversations and it seems most people expects that you have a bucket list. I don’t!

Always being the contrarian, I don’t have one. I do not see why you need to do or see this or that during a life time, I just don’t get it.  Until the 1970’s travelling far and wide was not common, until the age of mass tourism and cheap destinations, few travelled. Nowadays it seems everyone travels and have a bucket list, though travelling now is not has cheap as it was once when you could visit a country on $10. per day, remember those travel guide books, impossible now.

I can say that I spent my life travelling and living abroad so travelling some more now is not appealing, unless it is to a favourite city where I know where to go and who to see, like Rome, Vienna, Salzburg, London, Berlin, Palermo. What I have not seen in the world is no big deal and I do not need to go. There are places I really do not want to go back to, I did not enjoy them when I was there, example China. Some place have changed so much I don’t think I would enjoy them today as it would clash with my memories of them, example Egypt.

Travelling at Holiday time is also something I do not want to do, it seems that stories of things that went wrong and exhausting tales of family gatherings and all manner of unpleasantness abound. As someone said, you do not choose your relatives it is an accident of birth. Staying in town and with friends is our tradition. A nice meal at home with people we enjoy and same for New Year’s Eve, quiet and pleasant.

Now we still don’t have any snow maybe a sprinkle would be nice, not too much, just like icing on the cake.

And because this is the Season, my favourite Christmas Hymn heard in Roman Catholic Churches at Midnight Mass in French Canada. It was de rigueur as part of the religious service then.  Ça bergers, assemblons-nous!

 

Shopping street in Rome, Via dei Condotti on the left is BULGARI at no.10 and just a few steps further you arrive at Piazza di Spagna and the famous steps, all decorated for Christmas.

Christmas on ….

Tags

Holidays, Music, Pacific, Travel, XMAS

We were thinking hey why don’t we hop on the flight from Charlottetown PEI to Christmas Island, 747 service on PEI International Air, LOL! Try getting off PEI in Winter or Summer or … by Air. Of course you have to know that this Christmas Island is in Asia and part of Australia some 2600km from Perth. A little History, Captain William Mynors of the British East India Company ship, the Royal Mary, gave the island its name because they arrived on Christmas Day, 25 December 1643.

A bit far to go for Christmas but the thought is fun and exotic. Just a thought! Here is Ella to sing about Christmas on Christmas Island, a lovely song.