End of Season

Tags

Charlottetown, Friends, life, lobster, PEI, Seafood, Water Prince

Well one of our favourite restaurants in town closed last night. Usually it stays open until mid-december but this year with the lack of tourists and the pandemic, the owner Shane C. decided to close a month early. He will be back in mid-April. Hopefully 2021 will be a better year tourism wise on PEI. Another quiet year like 2020 will spell bankruptcy for many in that sector.

We always make a point of going on the last night to close the restaurant with a dinner amongst friends. This year we went twice before closing, once on Tuesday night and again on Thursday night. The Water Price Corner Shop is an institution. Regis Philbin who died recently loved the place, in fact he is one of the many celebrities who love this place and drop in during the Summer, a small restaurant with that Maritime souvenir decor with a solid quality seafood and Lobster, no pretensions.

Thank you to the staff, Maureen, Fiona, Theresa, Doug, Coady and Shane for many good meals and looking forward to seeing you again in April 2021.

We had a great dinner of Oysters on the half-shelf, beautiful fishcakes, grilled Halibut, boiled 1 pounder Lobster and Lobster roll. All excellent, great service and fun people.

Canada day in the countryside

Tags

Berlioz, crespin, cuisine, Food, Holiday, life, lobster, Music

We had a lovely day at our Friend Pam in Lower Montague at St-Andrew’s point. Will made a beautiful Lobster Quiche, he used a pound of lobster, my God it was so good and so rich, we drank champagne and for dessert he made a Summer Pudding of fresh berries, it was so light and refreshing topped off with freshly made whipped cream and more champagne.

Before the meal I made an appetizer of cucumber, large shrimp, cherry tomatoes and Bocconcini in fine herbs with a nice bottle of Pink Champagne. The weather was overcast but her house is on the water looking out unto the Strait and the Panmure Island.

It was a quiet day today all around, a bit unusual for Canada Day, no festivities and no fireworks because of the pandemic. Friday the Bridge re-opens for the first time in 3 months and people living in the Maritimes can travel only in the Maritimes without self-isolating. However today a bit of a stain on this good news,  it was reported that a passenger coming from Toronto on a flight to Halifax is suspected of having Covid 19. It still has to be confirmed. but if it is true, this may mean that Nova Scotia will be excluded from our Maritime bubble and have to go back into lockdown. No playing around with this matter.

There are also reports that the border with the USA could remain closed for a further year to all but essential travellers. The news from our southern neighbour is disastrous and very difficult to understand.

Today I thought of Hector Berlioz, Les nuits d’été and the first song Villanelle and I wanted a singer who had perfect French diction, so I chose Régine Crespin, (1927-2007) who had a major international career. Les nuits d’été (Summer Nights), is a song cycle by the French composer Hector Berlioz. It is a setting of six poems by Théophile Gauthier. The cycle, completed in 1841, was originally for soloist and piano accompaniment. The cycle was neglected for many years, but during the 20th century it became, and has remained, one of the composer’s most popular works. The full orchestral version is more frequently performed in concert. The cycle was complete in its original version for voice Mezzo-Soprano or Tenor in 1841.

Words are by Théophile Gauthier, Villanelle

Quand viendra la saison nouvelle,
Quand auront disparu les froids,
Tous les deux nous irons, ma belle,
Pour cueillir le muguet aux bois.
Sous nos pieds égrenant les perles,
Que l’on voit au matin trembler,
Nous irons écouter les merles siffler.

Le printemps est venu, ma belle,
C’est le mois des amants béni;
Et l’oiseau, satinant son aile,
Dit des vers au rebord du nid.
Oh! viens donc, sur ce banc de mousse
Pour parler de nos beaux amours,
Et dis-moi de ta voix si douce:
“Toujours!”

Loin, bien loin, égarant nos courses,
Faisant fuir le lapin caché,
Et le daim au miroir des sources
Admirant son grand bois penché,
Puis chez nous, tout heureux, tout aises,
En panier enlaçant nos doigts,
Revenons, rapportant des fraises
Des bois.

Weekend

Tags

life, lobster, mussels, Oysters

The sun is shining and the weather is quite warm, so it is time to go out. Friday afternoon we returned for the first time since February to the Club. Much improvements and changes, new paint job, new light fixtures and redecoration. Exterior work has been done and it all looks better. After drinks in the garden we walked by to our home just down the street and decided to have dinner at the Water Prince restaurant, the owner came to chat and told us that the price of lobster is $6.49 per pound, it has not been that low in 10 years, the main factor being that external markets have disappeared. Currently with the economic war China is waging against Canada over that dreadful communist official Ms Meng of G5 /Huawei, who faces extradition to the USA for espionage and fraud and the hostage diplomacy China has engaged in, China is blocking Canadian exports. There are 183 Canadians at the moment being held in Chinese jails,  one is a Canadian Diplomat and the other a tour operator, the two Michaels. We know they have been tortured and held in solitary confinement for 18 months now. Our Ambassador in the PRC has been visiting them whenever he is allowed to do so.

We had a very nice dinner, I had a pound of Mussels, the food at the Water Prince is very good and it is always nice atmosphere.

Of course we must still follow the rules on health when in public, though given that we have NO cases in PEI now for the last 2 months, many feel it is over, but it is not, we are all bracing for the second wave in the Fall.

Today was another lovely day and we drove to Victoria by the Sea which is a very small settlement going West towards the Confederation Sea Bridge at Borden. Basically 4 streets and a small harbour for fishing boats. Our doctor lives in Victoria by the Sea,  her husband is a fisherman. It is about a 25 minute drive to Charlottetown probably faster if she uses the By-Pass around Cornwall.

Victoria in the last few years has seen the constructions of many new luxury homes, luckily they all blend into the natural scenery. There is one large house going up on a cliff extending out to sea, looking at it from a distance I thought like many, who would want to live there in Winter when a sea storm is coming in with the fierce and howling winds, the owners probably think it is probably romantic. The house is very exposed on 3 sides to the sea with no trees or any natural protection, it is a promontory. How strange.

 

We had lunch in the Sunshine at Richard’s, a very famous take-out place on PEI. Everyone swears by it and there is always a crowd. The specialty is lobsters served in various forms and oysters. This restaurant is the second one, the original Richard’s is in Covehead harbour on the North shore. Both are Seasonal and only open in Mid-May and will close by Mid-September. The lobster roll is wonderful, they use the old style hotdog buns that you can toast and stuff a lobster in the bread with a mix of celery and coleslaw. It is quite a meal and we walked around the village afterwards, again this year despite the fact that all the eateries are open, some shops are not opening and the Orient Hotel which is a pension is closed. This pandemic has played havoc with tourist traffic this year. Many businesses will go under or will be sold off to competitor. Though the Maritime bubble is opening allowing us to travel to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Newfoundland without the quarantine period. The Government also allows people who own a cottage to come BUT they must ask permission first and give a time and date of arrival plus prove ownership of a cottage on the Island and give a plan of how they will manage their quarantine if they come from other provinces like Ontario. Those people from Quebec can cross by car from the Quebec border with New Brunswick and are allowed to drive all the way to Souris in PEI for the ferry to les Iles de la Madeleine which is a sandbar part of Quebec, the only problem is that they cannot stop anywhere on the way and this is a 12 hour car trip. There is also a requirement that they cross into New Brunswick after 8pm meaning that it is dangerous to drive in the dark, it is moose country and already an accident happened last week when a driver hit a moose which weighs on average one ton. No death this time only serious injuries and the car is totally destroyed.

Canada Day is coming up on Wednesday 1 July, this year it will be a virtual celebration and there are no public display for health reason. The weather says rain that day.

Fields of Lupins reminds me of Monty python.

Delays

Tags

Canada., cuisine, Fishermen, lobster, PEI, Seafood, tourism

Well the good news is that PEI has had NO new infections from COVID19 for the last 6 days and of the 25 people who were sick 23 are now recovered and 2 are at home. The Government of PEI is looking into making even more stringent requirements about anyone coming to PEI and at the moment it is strict, I would say you cannot get to the Island unless you live here permanently and have a home. All others are turned away at the Sea bridge. Our Chief Medical Officer Dr Heather Morisson says this is the only way to beat this thing and everyone must pitch in and observe the rules.

Tomorrow is 15 April and this would have been the day our favourite restaurant for seafood and lobster The Water Prince was to open for the Season. That is not going to happen now. The manager is a good friend of ours and we were talking about the situation.

Of course being a seafood and lobster restaurant, they need the supplies and it will only happen if the Season Opens at the end of the Month. Currently the Province is waiting for the Federal Government and the Ministry of Fisheries and Oceans to give the go ahead. Hopefully it will happen, otherwise it will be an economic disaster for all the fishers all around the Island, the industry is worth tens of millions of dollars to our economy but the fear of Covid19 is great.

Last year I posted pictures of Setting Day which opens the lobster fishing season and how much it means to people here. This year 2020 we do not know yet and it is worrisome. Usually the boats leave at dawn to set their cages in designated area.

I never was much of a lobster eater before coming to PEI, but here the fresh product coming right off the boat into your plate and the quality of the Lobster makes all the difference. Then there is also the Oysters harvested from various coves and bays around the Island, PEI Mussels famous in North America and scallops and the Halibut my favourite fish.

The problem with the Lobster boats is that you really cannot have distancing between people. You have 4 to 5 guys working side by side and it is hard and difficult work. So we will have to see how this is worked out. At the moment PEI will loose about 20,000 jobs just in the Hospitality/tourism industry this Summer. Many operators will not survive since the Summer Season was how many made their money. No tourists allowed on the Island, no business, you cannot really count on Islanders alone to support the whole sector.

Gardens are another area affected, will we be able to visit garden centres and buy some flower flats for our garden, will they open this year. Usually you wait until about 10 June to plant and to organize flower boxes and pots.

So yes there are delays and we have to be patient and all good things will eventually come.

Let’s pray to the Goddess Hestia, whose attributes are Patience, keeper of the Hearth and eternal fire of the home for a quick resolution to this pandemic.

Wonderful Happy Hour

Tags

Birthdays, Charlottetown, clam chowder, Friends, lobster, Oysters, PEI, Seafood

Today was a bright but cold sunny day,  tomorrow a storm is coming and it will not be fun. Around 3pm we got a call from across the street from friends asking us to come and have a drink at the Water Prince Corner Shop our local and famous seafood restaurant.

Shane and his son Coady Campbell are the owners and it is all about quality seafood, oysters and lobsters in a simple decor. We went and met our friends over oysters on the half shell, Shrimps in cocktail sauce, Clam chowder and lobster with white wine, what a wonderful happy hour it was. Never going back to peanuts and chips or whatever.

We will repeat this experience next Monday for another Birthday. It was great fun and gave us that wonderful feeling of ” Oh life is so good here”.

30 November 2019

Tags

Club, Dad, dinner, Food, Haviland, lobster, storm, surf, winter

Well our first snow storm of the Season is in full swing now. It started last evening with rain and winds and changed to snow squalls overnight. Poor visibility and dangerous driving or walking conditions. High winds with pounding surf and higher tides than normal, no time to go walk on the beach now, it can be dangerous. This weekend was the Christmas market weekend but the weather forced a change in schedule and most things are closed or re-scheduled until Sunday like the Santa parade.

We had a lovely dinner at the Club last night and enjoyed the Parlour fireplace. Many members who live within walking distance came. This is a good beginning to the Xmas Season.

Photo taken from our den, showing the famous Water Prince Corner Shop at the corner of Prince and Water street in old Charlottetown. This restaurant specialty is lobsters and seafood. They are famous because many celebrities have been for lunch or dinner and left testimonials. The Regis and Kathie Lee show was also taped at the location a few years  back and many tourists coming here to visit will make reservations. Being neighbours we can just cross the street and get a table. Not a big place just about 20 tables, but the food and service is excellent. The Winter Lobster Season started about 4 days ago and 250 boats went out to Sea, it is very dangerous work on the Ocean with waves and winds which toss boats about. Many here on the Island will have lobster for Xmas dinner at home, remembering to use sea water to boil their lobster, tap water won’t do.

One of the many fireplaces in the Club, this one is made of Pink Sicilian Marble which cannot be found anymore. Imported by the original owner of #2 Haviland Street, the young widow Esther Full-Lowden in 1869. This was her parlour to receive friends, after her death in 1896 the Mansion was rented out to the USA Government and this room was the American Consul’s Office, with 18 foot ceilings and fancy moulding. It was wonderful last night to sit by the fire and enjoy drinks with other members.

Today is very quiet with the storm raging outside. Sunday should be quiet also, I may go out to the Farmer’s Market to get my Dresden Stollen from Sabine and Michael S. who are natives of Dresden.

Today is also my late father’s Birthday, he would have been 89 years old. Here the two of us having lunch at the Queen Elizabeth Hotel in Montreal around 2014.

 

First roll of the Summer

Tags

Beach, lobster, PEI, Richard's, Summer, tourism, West Cove Head

Today finally we had some nice weather which was inviting enough for us to go to the beach at Cove Head. We are only 20 minutes away from the beach and the drive up is quiet usually alone on the road. The beach at Brackley is part of the National Park and so it is forested with maritime pines and sand dunes, marshy land and tall grass, beautiful and quiet. There are also some small harbours for lobster boats like Cove Head and a simple shack like restaurant called Richard’s which only serves seafood and lobster prepared very simply like you would have in your kitchen at home. You place your order and pay at the window then you are given an electronic device the size of a small phone and when it beeps your order is ready, you can sit at one of the simple wood tables looking out to the sea and beach or you can sit in your car to eat. The parking lot is small about 30 cars.  Richard’s has become very popular and it is best to go between 3 and 4pm to avoid crowds but still today we waited 20 minutes for our Lobster roll and fries.  It is a generous portion of lobster, I would say half to a full one pounder, chopped up and mixed with celery, salt and pepper and mayo on a hot dog bun. It was delicious. Having lunch late meant no dinner tonight, we are too full.

This being the long weekend of two in a row, June 24 Quebec St-Jean Baptiste Day and then 1 July Canada Day, schools are out for the Summer and so family vacations should start. But where are the tourists? Last night at the Summer Opening of the Art Gallery of the Confederation Centre, a person I know who is well connected to the business circles told me that tourism is down 50% so far this year. There are no tourist, I am not making this up, since May 15 we should have had droves of them all over the place, no what we have is lots of vacancies and half empty flights in and out of the Island. Cruise ships come but passengers do not get off. They are usually in port from 9am to 5pm. Last week only 20% got off a ship carrying 2600 people. The only reason I see so far has to do with the terrible weather we have had in April, May and June. Too many days of heavy rain and blustery winds with well below average in temperature. Even today with a lot of sunshine at the beach is was around 16C and in town it was around 19C not exactly Summer weather. The wind is still strong and cold.

Going to the beach so close to our home is pure luxury, it is so quiet, all you hear is the wind, the surf and the birds.

 

Cold weather and travels

Tags

Charlottetown, Festivals, Franconia, Germany, lobster, Moncton, Moose, NB, PEI, Petitcodiac, Reykjavik, Travel, wines

I am constantly amazed at the amount of people who simply do not believe anything is wrong with the climate. Winter started in PEI in early November, it was not a snowy Winter, it was mostly ice rain and high winds. April was rain and more rain, May not much better so far with one warm day. The Weather is so out of wack that farmers cannot plant anything the fields are mud, big sticky red mud. Tourists are staying away given the cold around the freezing point and rain weather. Of course the joke is that PEI only has 2 Seasons, Winter and Summer, in Quebec its Winter and Construction.

So last week I decided to travel off Island to Moncton, New Brunswick which is all of 2 hours away by car and across the Sea bridge of 12 Km. Going was not bad in terms of driving but coming back 2 days later the wind was high so crossing the Sea bridge, you are 350 feet above the Sea, I had both hands gripping the steering wheel and all the big transport trucks 18 wheelers were in convoys. It is a 2 lane bridge and you cannot go any faster than 80km  per hour, but with high winds around 60 miles per hour you do not want to go fast.

Moncton is poorly planned or not planned at all, shopping malls everywhere, a new COSTCO by the highway, a very beautiful river crosses the city with lots of marshland all around, because of the muddy banks it is called the Chocolate river or by its real name Petitcodiac river and it has a very powerful tidal wave coming all the way from Shepody Bay (Bay of Fundy) some 52 Km away. Moncton also has 2 Universities so lots of academic stuff and students. I stayed in Dieppe a suburb of Moncton but you could confuse the two since only a street separates the two cities. Also a large airport serves the area which is handy if you want to fly to other large Canadian cities and cannot do so from Charlottetown PEI.

I saw friends in Moncton and went for lunch to a very nice Café called Tony’s, tonysbistro.ca the food was excellent and they have the most wonderful French pastry shop. I really do not know anymore if COSTCO is all that worth it, I cannot say I saved much money. The real bargain is cheese, for the quantity and price it is unbeatable. Cheese in Canada in general is so expensive that I wonder why they do not have armed guards in supermarkets. After 30 minutes of shopping I had to get out, I was feeling tired by the place.

Chocolate river or Petitcodiac river.

Since I was staying with friends, I brought them Lobsters, now of course you will think don’t they have lobster in New Brunswick, of course they do BUT it is coastal lobster fished in the Strait whereas my lobster is fished in the Gulf on the open sea side of PEI. The taste fishermen tell me is different because of the salt water content. I am not a big lobster eater and will have one per year. However I bought mine at the Water Prince restaurant across the street from my home and Shane and his son Cody sell wonderful seafood. The lobsters were each 2 pounders, the meat was rich and creamy, very good and at $11. per pound well worth it. Now I bought them cooked because I do not know how to cook them in Salt Water and you have to know how to do it. Salt Water in the cooking is very important, many people make the mistake of cooking lobster in unsalted water, big mistake as it changes the taste and the quality of the meat. The best way is to take the water straight from the Sea.

This was my lobster, please note the long antennas which indicates that this lobster was well fed and very fresh. If the antennas are damaged or missing, that is a bad sign, lobster if they are hungry and have no food, will eat their antennas.

Going to Moncton was fun and seeing my friends was a nice brake from the Island. We will be travelling again in June but this time to Ottawa for a week. A first return trip since we left 3 years ago. We are driving 14 hours, but we will need the car in town anyways. I also visited Memramcook (Micmac language meaning Crooked river) which is the birthplace of the first French Language University in the Maritime Provinces, U de Moncton. The Eudistes Fathers opened the university in 1864, the village of Memramcook is ancient, the Micmac indians have lived there since the beginning of time and the French speaking Acadians arrived in 1700. They were deported by British colonial troops coming mostly from the Boston area in 1755. However those who survived the ethnic cleansing returned after 1765. It remains an important historical and cultural site for the Acadians.

Whenever you travel on the highways in N.B. you have to be mindful that the vast forests all around you are full of Moose, you do not want an encounter with one of them, they are very large animals weighing often for a full grown male around one ton or a little more. There is a special number to call if you see one near the road and it is important to remember to stop if the Moose is on the road and stay well away from it. They can charge your car and will injure or kill you in the process if it is mating season.

Monument Lefebvre, first French speaking University in the Maritimes, now known as the Université de Moncton. These buildings are part of the National historical park now, the University moved to Moncton some years ago.

Coming back to Charlottetown, we had tickets to go to the Wine Festival held at this time each year. This year was featuring German Wines, we bought a few bottles mostly of dry Rieslings and met with the owner of a winery in the Franconia region of Germany, Regina ZenZen (from the German word for Licence collector) a very nice lady and in her presentation she paired her wines, in this case a wonderful Silvaner with raw Tuna in a light acidic vinaigrette, the chef was Mitchell from Claddagh Oyster House in Charlottetown, one of my favourite restaurant. Mitchell is a great guy only 28 but talented.

We are also now booking a 7 day cruise with Holland America from Amsterdam to Norway, we will spend some time in Holland, I want to re-visit the Rijks Museum now that the renovations are completed. We will also fly first to Iceland for a few days, there are direct flights from Montreal to Reykjavik on our way to join the cruise in September. Other than that we lead a dull life.

Reykjavik, Iceland

 

 

 

 

 

 

May 2019

Tags

Charlottetown, island, lobster, Province

Well this month marks our third anniversary living in PEI. I moved with Nicky and Nora in the back of the car snoozing all the way from Ottawa an 1100 Km, fourteen hour drive. Arriving on May 1 from the mainland. The truck with our four and a half ton of belonging would follow a few days later. Will came to PEI in late September, he had to finish a work contract.

It has been a busy 3 years, full of events and happenings. Living in the Maritimes and on a small island with a population equal to old neighbourhood in Ottawa, has its challenges. We always lived in cities of a million plus people, great capitals of the world. Charlottetown at 36,000 often feels like Mayberry, everyone knows everybody, 88% of the population is white and christian.  There is no real diversity, just the beginning of some multiculturalism which is seen by Islanders as quaint. But since 2000 Charlottetown has changed quite a bit and more change is on the way, a large Asian population is visible. Indian families from the Sub-continent form a large contingent. Other towns and villages remain largely homogenous with the exception of Stratford and Cornwall, the satellites towns around Charlottetown. A cosmopolitan area near Montague, pop 2000 with two large Buddhist Monasteries and their distinctive architecture at Brudenell with 1400 monks has attracted a lot of attention, not always positive, despite the charitable work and influx of cash brought by the Monastery.  The challenge is for the Provincial Government to find a way to have these new comers stay in PEI and not leave after 3 to 4 years for cities like Toronto or Montreal, which offer easier integration into society if you are not white and better schools, better health care, better work opportunities, a large international airport. More and more Canadians from the other provinces come to PEI to live and work but they too, like us often face a wall of resistance. Older Islanders the +50 crowd are very afraid of change and our Ex-Premier who was defeated in the last general election on 23 April was very good at playing the xenophobic card to get votes from older people. During the campaign he did not miss an opportunity to remind people of his family ties to the Island compared to his opponents. However the demographics have changed quite a bit and the millennials who voted in the last election point to more progressive and enlighten views and this is a very good thing for PEI. This is why the Green Party has made such a breakthrough, a first in Canada.

So what have we done in the last 3 years in PEI. Well we have volunteered in many areas, got to know a lot of people, been socially active, I ran for Municipal Office. Got involved in the last general election and again met a lot of people. Joined a Club am now am sitting on the board. Raised funds for the PEI Symphony, etc.. Learned about the Island and the people and its place in the Maritimes.

So our lives have become involved in the fabric of Island society. Socially speaking we have been super busy much more so than when we lived in Ottawa. It is easier here to meet people and often spontaneous kitchen parties take place, you just show up.

Has it been a good move?  On the sum of it I would say yes. It took some adjustment and getting to know the Island way. Yes some times we thought what are we doing here, but then we think back and realize that we have a good life.

 

 

 

 

Setting Day in PEI

Tags

life, lobster, PEI, traps

Today May 3, 2019 is Setting Day in all ports in PEI, everyone really is talking about it and it is annually a very big affair. This year due to poor weather and very high winds the captains of the Lobster boats and the Canadian Dept of Fisheries delayed Setting Day by several days. But finally the weather has improved and the wind died down and off they go to start setting their lobster traps, this means that by Saturday people in PEI will eat PEI Lobster. The job of setting traps and catching lobster is dangerous and difficult, anyone who has ever work on a lobster boat will tell you so, but it is also exciting. No where else in Canada do we have such a tradition which is so typical of the life on PEI.

To work on a lobster boat you need good sea legs and a good amount of physical strenght. You go to sea early in the morning just at dawn and return during the afternoon. The traps must be numbered and set according to an exact pattern, no haphazard work here, it is very important that each captain know which traps are his and in what designated area he is setting them. Each trap comes also with a buoy, in the photo you can see the buoy in blue with red tips.

Everyone wishes them luck and happy Setting Day, friends, families and onlookers line the dock and the wharfs to see them off. Now let’s see what the price per pound will be this year. Of course the best prices are set at the dock, so if you go down to the dock chances are you will pay a lot less than what you would pay in a grocery store or at the Fish store or worse what the tourists pay in restaurants, but the tourists are all rich so hey they can pay.