Sé de Lisboa

Tags

Cathedral, Moors, pope, Portugal, Sé

At the foot of Castle Hill and in one of the oldest part of Lisbon near the Alfama neighbourhood is the Sé de Lisboa or Cathedral of Lisbon. Tram #12 passes right by it and stops at the Church of Saint Anthony few a few steps away.

The Sé is dedicated to St-Mary Major, construction of the cathedral began in the year 1147, the building has been modified several times and survived many earthquakes. It is nowadays a mix of different architectural styles, Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque. It has been classified as a National Monument since 1910.

After the period of Visigothic domination the city was conquered by the Moors and stayed under Arab control from the 8th to the 12th century, although Christians were allowed to live in Lisbon and its surroundings. In the year 1147, the city was reconquered by an army composed of Portuguese soldiers led by King Afonso Henriques and North European crusaders and not to forget Martin Moniz taking part in the Second Crusade. An English crusader named Gilbert of Hastings was created bishop, and a new cathedral was built on the site of the main mosque of Lisbon.

Earthquakes have always been a problem for Lisbon and its cathedral. During the 14th and 16th centuries there were several of them, but the worst of all was the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, which destroyed the Gothic main chapel along with the royal pantheon. The cloisters and many chapels were also ruined by the quake and the fire that followed. The cathedral was partially rebuilt and, in the beginning of the 20th century, was given the appearance that it has today after important renovation.

photo of the archeological excavations

In recent years the central courtyard of the cloister has been excavated and shows signs of the Roman, Arab and mediaeval periods. Excavations started in Cathedral Cloister in 1990. They have revealed a Roman road with shops on either site. A part of a Roman kitchen and a “cloaca” (sewage system). and traces of later Visigoth buildings. A very visible part of a Moorish building with red walls related to the former Mosque that once stood on this site was also excavated.

Now for the treasures of the Sé, on the second floor are the Offices of the Archbishop and beautiful objects can be found.

The meeting room of the Cardinal Patriarch and other clergy. The Cardinal Patriarch sat on a throne not unlike the Sedia Gestatoria of the Pope with ostrich feather flabella. This room is no longer used nowadays but illustrates the authority of the Church in Portugal prior to 1974. It is thought the privilege of the portable throne was granted by the Popes to the Cardinal Patriarchs of Lisbon due to the financial support provided them by King Joao V of Portugal.

This Monstrance in solid gold with diamonds and other precious stones was a stunning piece of jewellery. Monstrance are used A monstrance, also known as an ostensorium, is the vessel used in Roman Catholic churches for the exhibition of  the consecrated Eucharistic host during Eucharistic adoration or Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament.

This Cardinal’s mitre with semi-precious jewels. Cardinals in the presence of the Pope wear a mitre of white linen damask. The auriphrygiata is of plain gold cloth or white silk with gold, silver or coloured embroidered bands. The mitre originated as a ceremonial head-dress of ancient Jewish high priests.

This I thought quite funny, it is in the sacristy of the Cathedral, painted Portuguese tiles showing on the right God the Father with a triangle, in the middle the Holy Ghost and on the left God the Son, Jesus all three in conversation. Ok 3 persons in God but it looks like God is talking to himself. You wonder what is he talking about anyway, I mean he would not be talking about religion to himself. And if God is Eternal why is he shown as an old man? Should he not be ageless? I am going to get such a smack from the good nuns for asking such questions.

 

A book I am reading

Tags

Bishops, Charles V, God, Luther, pope, Protestant, Reformation, Saxony, Zwigli

I am coming to the end of the biography of Martin Luther, one of the Protestant Reformers who 500 years ago in 2017 publishes his 95 theses on Church reform.

Luther was a doctor of Canon Law, a monk of the Augustinian Order in the Catholic Church. His Reforms were aimed at correcting errors which according to him had been created by Popes and Bishops since the 4th Century A. D. creating a situation of fear and ignorance in a world dominate by the Roman Catholic Church and the Popes who were the only one capable of interpreting God’s Will and teachings.

For many years Luther tried to come to an agreement with the Pope on what was necessary to have a more faithful understanding of the teachings of Christ and a relinquishing of Papal authority. In the end that proved impossible for reasons mainly of European politics and the power of Princes and the Pope, authority which at the times could never be questioned.

In this biography Luther is shown unvarnished, he is an anti-semite, misogynist, a racist, he dislikes anyone who is not German, cruel, fixated on his bowel movements which he describes in great analytical terms. Though he wishes painful deaths on anyone who disagrees with him, roasted dissenters alive seemed to be a favourite of his, he was also very concerned with his own salvation.

Though some of his 95 theses address directly the excess of Papal authority on Salvation and remittance of sins others were changed and modified many times depending on what other Reformers like Zwigli and Calvin advocated. Luther always the clever politician, never angering the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V (a Catholic) and always making sure he was in the good grace of his Protector the Prince of Saxony,(a Protestant).

The whole reform movement also came at a time of rising Nationalism in the German Principalities and in Switzerland, followed by England with Henry VIII, though Luther did not consider him a Prince bent on Reforming the Church but more doing what he wanted as King. This national fervour rejected the authority of the Pope in Rome and was also in opposition to Emperor Charles V, a Spanish Habsbourg, who ruled over the New World, Spain and most of Europe and defender of the Pope’s authority. As Holy Roman Emperor, most European Princes owed their power to him.

This is why when Luther was summoned to the Imperial Diet in Worms in 1521 to defend his 95 Theses in front of the Emperor, the Papal Ambassador and the Princes, it required a lot of courage and determination, knowing that he could easily be arrested and condemned to die by torture and fire, Luther had a martyr’s wish, though he died in his own bed, fat and rich in 1546.  He was very opinionated and did not hesitate to berate and abuse his own colleagues and friends.

In the end what I retain of Luther and the Reformation movement is that any person can take Scripture and interpret them in his own way, coming to a personal understanding of what is the Word of God. Luther lived at a time when the World was changing, politically and socially and he was part of that change. After him came the Wars of Religion and the Thirty years War which decimated the population of Europe.

Photos

Tags

PM, pope, Sistine Chapel, Trudeau, Vatican

Yesterday I got a newsletter from the Canadian Club Of Rome, we use to be members when we lived there, lots of nice activities for Canadians living in Italy.

This caught my eye, the Embassy of Canada to Italy not to be confused with the Embassy of Canada to the Holy See (Vatican), is participating in Gay Pride 2017.

Here is a promotional photo taken in the garden of the Chancery of the Embassy on Via Salaria with the staff and the Ambassador holding up the letter D.

They will have a float for the parade which starts at Piazza Repubblica and winds down into the centre of the City.

Today our Prime Minister met with the Pope at the Apostolic Palace for 42 minutes, one on one and many topics were discussed. Sophie Grégoire his spouse joined them for the photo afterwards in the Office of the Pope. The Prime Minister then walked around the Palace which in itself is a museum (not open to the public) and is attached to the famous Sistine Chapel built in 1473. Everyone was smiling on the photos and you could see a good rapport between the Pontiff and Trudeau. The Pope was invited by Trudeau to visit Canada.

Photo courtesy of the CBC. It is rare to see the chapel so empty, it was closed to allow the couple to visit quietly. The Prime Minister then gave his press conference in the beautiful and vast gardens of the Vatican. I once visited the chapel with just 10 other people on a private tour, it beats being in the chapel with the multitudes. Our guide explained the various figures and pointed out that God the Father stands above in the centre of the ceiling wearing a diaphanous pink like toga mooning us. Perhaps a little artistic liberty Michelangelo took with the topic while painting The Last Judgement ceiling between 1508-12, apparently Pope Julius II did not say a word about it. The Sistine Chapel also known as Cappella Magna took its name from Pope Sixtus IV.  The architects were Giovannino de Dolci and Baccio Pontelli.

During the reign of Sixtus IV, a team of Renaissance painters that included Sandro Botticelli, Pietro Perugino, Pinturicchio, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Cosimo Roselli, created a series of frescos depicting the Life of Moses and the Life of Christ, offset by papal portraits above and trompe oeil drapery below. These paintings were completed in 1482, and on 15 August 1483 Sixtus IV celebrated the first mass in the Sistine Chapel for the Feast of the Assumption, at which ceremony the chapel was consecrated and dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

The past week in the World

Tags

Free Trade, G7, NATO, pope, Sicily, Trump, Vatican

The German Magazine BILD quoted the German Chancellor Angela Merkel today in a Speech she gave in Bavaria at a political rally of her party CSU: We can’t rely on the US anymore. I have experienced this in the last days. We Europeans should take destiny in our own hands. ~@BILD

In the past week we have seen Donald Trump destroy 70 years of diplomatic relations and turn the USA into a laughingstock that no one can trust. He went to Saudi Arabia where he has business interests and made his speech again on terrorism thinking that the Arab leaders will fall for it. They are far more astute than he and saw right through his words. What he really wanted to do was sell weapons with no other objective in mind. Not understanding that singling out IRAN when there is already an agreement on Nuclear weapons is not wise and plays against US interests.

Then on to Israel and Palestine where under the guidance of his son-in-law Jared K. he gave full support to the right wing government of Netanyahu without a thought to the consequences. He believed he had left the Middle-East, it was not clear where he thought he was presently as if Israel was a continent. Trump wanted everyone to believe that he had the Peace solution in hand.  Again petulant and arrogant, ignorant of the issues of the region, unable to grasp the complexities. What Trump knows is what his prejudices have taught him and what he sees on television, he does not want to see further or ask questions.

Goes to see the Pope at the Vatican and the photos speak volumes, what a disaster again. The Pope gave him the document, encyclical letter Laudato Si, he wrote on the topic of care for one another, in light of the battle to repeal Obama care a rather pointed message. Visits to the Vatican are highly organized, choreograph affairs, the Holy See has 1400 years of diplomatic experience, Trump barges in as if he is at the OK Corral, his beliefs and attitude are highly insulting and in direct contradiction with social justice, human rights and the agenda of the Pontiff. Under the guidance of US diplomats Trump could have modified his message to be more appealing and avoid the worst but no, why bother, we are dealing with Archie Bunker here.

At Nato in Brussels, he lectured and insulted the other World Leaders, why? Trump like his supporters believes that the USA tells the World what to do and how high to jump. The new French President Macron said today that the handshake he gave Trump at their meeting  was tight on purpose, he does not like the man. So you can see the USA-France relationship cool and become difficult.

Trump’s attitude is that the USA saved the World and the World owes the USA everything. As one American tourist said on a trip we took on the Danube, the Germans need our money, we saved them from Hitler. Problem is Germany and the EU today are strong economies and the Second World War ended 70 years ago and the Cold War ended 28 years ago. The world has changed and Trump is unaware. To make the statement to other G7 members that he found investing in Europe difficult because the Europeans are too difficult when he is negotiating to build new golf courses, is hardly an intelligent economic argument. That Chancellor Angela Merkel has to explain to him that German car manufacturers create thousands of jobs in several plants in various US States and that Americans want to buy quality German products is not a bad thing, it is called the Free Market and Capitalism. It reminds me that the US Armed Forces have a special program to allow its personnel to buy at reduce cost tax free BMW cars. I am sure Trump still does not understand, he does not want to believe that we live in a interconnected world, there is no one way street. Europe is an important economic power of 500 million people, we are no longer in the 1950’s, John Wayne is dead.

The way he shoved his way to the front by pushing the Prime Minister of Montenegro, his refusal to walk with other leaders taking a golf cart instead, his condescending attitude and smug self satisfied smile on every picture is truly sad. His failure to re-affirm the NATO principle of mutual defence all the while demanding that countries pay up the 2% in defence spending because it is not fair to America. Excuse me but the 2% is a goal not an obligation and countries have until 2024 to reach it, so as the expression goes, Chill Donald just chill. Refusing to adhere to Principle 5 of the Alliance when the USA invoke it after September 11, again shows his complete ignorance of facts.

The last straw in Taormina, Sicily in the shadow of Mount Etna, could no one push him into the volcano and do the world a favour? Such Summits have a pre-determined agenda, Summits are highly scripted affairs and the final communiqué is always prepared in advance of the Summit. Only small changes are made before it is released at the end of the Summit. Everyone had agreed on the wording to re-affirm support for the Paris Agreement on the Environment and on other economic issues like Free Trade. Trump decides to say he will let everyone know by next week. Hello!!! Trump get with the program, this is not how Summit work. The G7 leaders said that the conversations were unsatisfactory, disappointing and no agreement was reached on anything, diplomatic speak, the translation this Summit with Trump was a total failure and he is an idiot.

It is now obvious that the USA cannot be trusted and Trump is an ignorant boor. So Angela Merkel is right in saying that the EU can no longer count or trust the USA. Canada is also now having to re-negotiate NAFTA, we cannot trust the USA, the current Administration has declared economic war on us and on Mexico. Canada and the EU must now look out for their own interests and count on ourselves and not the USA.

This last week the USA declined in the World, no longer leading, Trump is not interested in that role, going back to the isolationist policies of 1919 is pretty sad for a once such great country.

Buon Natale!

Tags

Catholic, Christmas, Festival, Immaculate Conception, pope, Rome, Spain

Today the 8th December is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception in the Roman Catholic Calendar. This in Rome is a great day, all the religious congregation will come to the Piazza Spagna at the foot of the famous stairs of the same name and say prayers at the great column surrounded by the 4 Jewish Prophets, Abraham, Moses, Jeremiah, Isiah and at the top of this ancient column taken from a great Roman temple from antiquity is the no less antique statue of Venus goddess of beauty and love re-shaped as the Virgin Mary, Queen of Heaven standing on a Crescent Moon.

At the appointed hour the Pope will travel from the Vatican to Piazza Spagna escorted by the Carabinieri, Italy’s National Police. He will come to say prayers on this day and bless the crowd and then he will give a giant wreath to the Vigili (Firemen) of Rome so that they can go up the column in a cherry picker to place the wreath on the arm of he Virgin.

Afterwards the Pope will enter the Embassy of Spain to the Holy See to have a drink with the Ambassador of His Most Catholic Majesty, King Felipe of Spain. The old Palace of the Embassy has been on that site for centuries, since the time before Columbus some 500 odd years.

Here I am in 2009 at Piazza Spagna with the famous fountain The Fontana della Barcaccia (Fountain of the Ugly Boat). The fountain was commissioned by Pope Urban VIII and was completed in 1627 by Pietro Bernini and his son Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The Column of the Immaculate Conception behind me and the crowds on the 8th December waiting for the Pope.

This is an old Roman Feast like so many others during the year. In Rome and in Italy in December.

SAINT BARBARA DAY – City of Paterno, 4th December Saint Barbara is best known in Italy as the patron saint of Paterno in Sicily. The early Christian saint and martyr is also known for being the patron saint of many other things too – including firemen, artillerymen and also firework makers. The Paternò festival has been a mainstay of the 4th December since the 16th century. It’s written that Saint Barbara became Paternò’s patron saint after appearing to a Benedictine nun in a dream. At the time the region was gripped by an epidemic and in desperation, the nun pleaded to the Saint to save Paternò. The miracle happened and as a result, Saint Barbara became Paternò’s patron saint along with San Vincenzo. To celebrate this miracle, Saint Barbara Day is held in the early part of December every year. A religious ceremony allows a moment of serious contemplation and in addition to this, many other events are laid on. These include a parade, sporting and musical events, a Nativity scene and of course, fireworks – highly appropriate for this patron saint of firework makers!

FESTA DI SAN NICOLA – 6th December Another Christian saint to be honoured this month is Saint Nicholas. Greek bishop Saint Nicholas was a Christian saint from the fourth century. But most famously, he is said to be the man who inspired the legend of a certain gift-delivering, bearded chap who tends to crop up quite a bit at this time of year. Santa Claus? Well, this certainly tallies with Saint Nicholas’ generous spirit. What’s more, he would carry out secret acts such as leaving gifts and coins in secret. Abruzzo is one to watch when it comes to Saint Nicholas celebrations. The region is known for its bustling parade and its generous helpings of local traditional breads, biscuits and wines. Venice’s Murano Island celebrates the saint for a whole week, and on the actual day of the 6th, there is a superb water procession.

SANT’AMBROGIO DAY – Milan, 7th December Milan marks its one-time governor and bishop on 7th December. Saint Aurelius Ambrosius was also a theologian, a composer and like Saint Nicholas. Was also a generous man, donating his possessions to the poor, for example. The morning service begins the day’s memorial of Saint Ambrosius. The day is later filled with music, song and celebration. A noteworthy custom on this day is the street market called Oh Bej! Oh Bej! The street market takes place in the streets surrounding Piazza Sant’ Ambrogio and offers a wealth of crafts and antiques. There is also much to eat and drink, including a selection of meats, cheeses, pancakes, sweets and mulled wine.

FEAST DAY OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION – 8th December Originally announced as an official Feast Day in 1854 by Pius IX, The Feast Day of the Immaculate Conception takes place every year in Italy on 8th December. Throughout Italy, ceremonies and celebrations are held to mark the day. Fire is a key element of the event, and this is attributed to a number of interpretations such as getting rid of sins, warming the Madonna or warming Jesus’ garments. With that in mind, many regions mark the day with the flame. Umbria lights the Fires of the Arrival. Abruzzo lights a bonfire as songs are sung. People clutch torches (or faugini) in Atri as they make their way in procession to the cathedral. Elsewhere, Italy honours this day in other ways whether it’s the Roman ceremony at the Spanish Steps or the the consumption of seasoned, fried bread, pettole in Apulia.

SANTA LUCIA DAY – 13th December A Christmas tradition is to leave a pie and a hot drink (or something stronger) for Santa on 24th December. In Italy, another tradition runs along these lines 12 days earlier. To herald Santa Lucia Day, in North Eastern regions of Italy, youngsters are invited to leave a small collection of goodies for the spirit of Saint Lucy, the Christian martyr and patron saint of Syracuse. A cup of coffee is left for Saint Lucy, a carrot for her donkey and a glass of wine for Castaldo, her escort. Good children will be suitably rewarded with a selection of gifts left behind the next morning! Syracuse pays tribute to its patron saint with a fireworks display and special parade. The centrepiece of the parade is a large, heavy silver statue. Weighing in at 90 kilos, the statue needs the strength of around 60 men to take it to the Church of Santa Lucia.
CHRISTMAS EVENTS AND MARKETS
The festive spirit is alive each year in Italy. For a serious reminder of the meaning of Christmas, St Peter’s Square in Vatican City hosts Midnight Mass. This event sees many people flock to the Square – the ceremony can also be seen on a large TV in this location. The next day, the Pope also broadcasts his annual Christmas message to the World.
Christmas Eve is lit up in the area of Cortina d’Ampezzo. The Alpine Peak is lit up with skiers bearing torches to mark the dawning of Christmas.
The ultimate Christmas Light Display can be seen in Umbria. Located near the peak of Monte Ingino is the world’s tallest Christmas Tree which boasts over 700 lights and a star that can be seen as far away as 50 km. Torino also puts on a spectacular light show. More than 20km of streets and squares come to life with special illuminations to really get you in the mood for the season.

The Italian Christmas market conjures up its own world in many cases. Many markets are held in purpose-built huts. Trento offers a good instance of this, boasting 60 wooden huts built for the occasion. All sorts of items are available to buy including crafts, festive decorations and home-made foods. Venice’s Campo Santo Stefano also proudly hosts its very own mini-village selling local crafts, gifts, food and drink.

ST STEPHEN’S DAY – 26th December Traditionally, Italians keep themselves to themselves on Christmas Day. It’s a day for family and friends, as their houses are filled with loved ones to enjoy plenty of food, drink and good company. But the next day, the streets are busy again as Italy marks St Stephen’s Day. St Stephen is known as the first Christian martyr and was one of the first deacons of the Christian church. The actual St Stephen’s Day is said to draw inspiration from 26th December 1394. On this day, the relics of Saint Stephen were taken from the repository of the Castle of Monopoli and taken to Putignano in Bari on the orders of the Knights of St John. As the relics were carried by wagon, the knights guarding the vehicle were met with a growing crowd of interested locals. By the time the wagon made it to its destination, it had attracted quite a crowd! To represent purity, a mixture of chickpeas and barley (Farinetta) was created and applied to faces. Today, the day is celebrated in many ways. Sometimes, people choose to make a quiet visit to church to leave a donation. Or, alternatively, processions are held. In Putignano, to replicate the original Mass, poetry is spoken in the local dialect. A common theme of this day is that of Nativity re-enactments. Good examples include Veneto’s 300-strong retelling of the Bible story, the living Nativity scene around the streets of Vaccheria or Fara San Martino’s worthy re-enactment.

Metropolitana

Tags

construction, Italia, Italian, metropolitana, Olympics, pope, Roma, Subway, Vatican

Yesterday I was looking for information on the extension of the Rome Subway (Metropolitana) as it is called. Since 1955 Rome has a subway system composed of two lines forming a X pattern which cross the city, Line A (27 stations) and Line B (25 Stations).

Metro Station sign in Rome

The rest of the public transit system is made up of electric buses and electric  Trams on rail which can be found everywhere in the city. Since 2007 Line C has been in construction on the West-East Axis and since November 2014 one third of the new Line is finally open. The other two thirds will be open slowly, 2 more stations in July 2015 and then one more Station at St-John Lateran will open in June 2016 finally connecting  Line C with Line A making it truly a subway line connected to the system and finally in 2023 the rest is scheduled to open East of the Vatican Hill.

Portion of Line C of the Rome Metropolitana still under construction.

The reason for all the delays has been all the archeological artefacts in the sub-soil of Rome. The biggest challenge is between St-Peter’s Square and Colosseo, this section crosses what was ancient Rome where all the important buildings of Imperial Rome are located at a depth of about 30 to 40 feet below the street level of today. The tunnel passes at about 60 feet below that level but the concern is what happens when you dig a large tunnel for subway cars to race through daily and what is it disturbing in the process. One Station has already been scratched from the plan, that of Largo Argentina between Piazza Venezia and Chiesa Nuova. Largo Argentina is the site of many temples you can admire today but also of the Theatre of Pompey where Julius Caesar was assassinated on the Ides of March 44BC and numerous other ancient monuments. It is easier to bypass the whole area than to try to put in a Metro Station and tunnel. At any rate I cannot see that it will make a big difference since the distance between Piazza Venezia and Largo Argentina or Chiesa Nuova is about 2 Km. easily walkable on the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.

The cost has also mushroomed in the last 10 years by about 2 Billion Euros but the Metro will be built, it is a question of honour for the Romans and damn the expense. That is what I like about Rome, it’s the Party must go on Spirit.

Map of the Metro of Rome currently, Blue Line B and B1 and Yellow Line A in green Line C. Line D is under design phase and does not appear on this map.

Line C has 12 operating Station from Montecompatri-Pantano to Parco di Centocelle with trains that are driven by a computer system. Until it reaches the connection point with San Giovanni on Line A it will be underused. This summer another 6 Stations will open to Lodi Station.  Though I can see this line as being useful if you live in the Western end of the City and are coming to the Centro but still at this point and until 2016 you would have to transfer to a bus for the remainder of your ride. Lodi is one station short of San Giovanni or the transfer connection to Line A.

Just the Station going through Piazza Venezia required 3 years of archeological digs, the great green area in front of the Altar to the Nation uncovered the long lost Atheneum of Emperor Hadrian and next to it the Greek Library of Emperor Trajan, the remains are significant and important given that in Antiquity these two buildings were well known. Once the documentation work was done they were recovered with clean fill and the subway work can continue around them.

All this research came about because I read Italian papers each day and noted two stories, one about 2016 being a Holy Year, Pope Francis just announced it, and the Rome Mayor Ignazio Marino saying ”Roma e Pronta” Rome is ready, really?!? If you are planning to go to Rome in 2016 better reserve your hotel rooms now. Millions of pilgrims are expected and the whole area around St-Peter will be a mob scene. Luckily it is on the other side of the Tiber River so out of the centro.

The other piece of news was that Rome wants to host the Olympic Games in 2024 so it is important to finish this subway system upgrade as soon as possible. The last time the Olympics were in Rome was 1960.

The Pope visits Warsaw, June 1999.

Tags

Church, Curia, Greece, Jean-Paul II, Orthodox Christian, papal visits, Poland, pope, Russia, Vatican, Warsaw

Being in Poland at the time of the long pontificate of Jean-Paul II meant that he was a very central figure in the affairs of the Polish State, this despite the fact that many Polish politicians were not necessarily his fans. But being politicians they had to show proper respect and speak in code so as not to offend the powerful Polish Church and other Catholic zealots. On the other hand Lech Walensa the former leader of Solidarnosc and ex-President of Poland was not liked much in Poland which for us Canadians was always a puzzle. Was he not sort of the great man of resistance to the Communist authorities? By becoming President and siding time and again with the Church did not make him popular, for a lot of Poles it was like you replace the Communist dictatorship by a Catholic dictatorship. Walensa was also seen as a man of little education and he apparently could not speak very well in public often using slang expressions and not having enough gravitas in public. Poles preferred figures like General Josef Pilsudski (1867-1935) or Ignacy Paderewski (1860-1941) Walensa was too of the people.

In the Spring of 1999 it was announced that the Pope would come and visit Poland again, he actually came 9 times between 1979 and 2004. June was set date and an elaborate program was laid out including visits to many cities and mass rallies and all manners of public events. Considering that the Pope suffered from an advance state of Parkinson’s disease at the time, many of us wondered if he would be able to do everything. His Press Office and the Polish Catholic Church controlled the agenda and the messaging was not only optimistic but enthusiastic, yes he would go hiking in the mountains and yes he is ill but it has no impact on his daily activities. The truth was very different, the Pope was frail and many activities announced were often at the last moment modified into some other activity. But every time we were told that he had decided to change the program to cram in even more activities to please as many people as possible, it was not true of course, but the gullible public was willing to believe anything and the Polish and international press played along.

Per example there was a large monument across the street from our Embassy building and the Pope was scheduled to come and bless it. In the end the pope mobile passed by, stopped briefly, Jean Paul II raised his hand and blessed it and then simply moved on.   A small circle of people knew that his team of doctors would prepare a medical cocktail each day and would either increase or decrease certain drugs to allow him to do his program. One day the medical team over medicated him and he was unable to get out of bed. It was announced immediately that he had the 24 hour stomach flu and he needed to rest, nothing to worry about and then a series of interviews were given by specially designated Catholic spokes persons to reinforce the point that the Pope was vigorous and would continue to work from his bed directing the affairs of the church and attending to other matters. All this was a lie, in reality Jean-Paul II was not conscious and his entourage were very worried he might have to return to Rome immediately or worse be hospitalized in Poland, his condition was that serious.

The health of Popes is a little like the health of the Soviet leaders, everyone has the 24 hour flu until suddenly they are dead. Every word has to be measured and only positive or optimistic pronouncements are allowed after having been vetted by advisors and senior Cardinals who alway have an eye on the political impact of events and developments. Also Popes despite having all the necessary means at their disposals do not always have the best of medical teams. Again consideration is given to Canonical Law and Church doctrine what is allowed and not allowed or what could go against Church teachings, after all the Pope is in God’s hands, the Heavenly Father decides not us. Modern medical science plays only a side role not a primary one. Finally another element maybe more venal, all the people around him lose their positions when a Pope dies. The new Pope will have a new Court around him so if you are waiting to be created Cardinal or if you want this or that prominent post or a commission within the Curia or become bishop in some diocese, you have to make sure your cause is advanced while the Pope can still sign a decree granting your wish.

It was known that once Jean-Paul II died all the Polish prelates would go, there would be a house cleaning, though the public is never made aware of this. Though it was no secret in Rome that the Polish group was not well liked by other members of the Curia. The reason being that mixing Polish Nationalism, Nationhood, Politics and Religion mixed with, in some cases, extreme Conservative views never a good cocktail, though you find this in other countries like Orthodox Christian Russia and Greece.

Jean-Paul II wanted to visit Russia in what was described as the Spirit of Ecumenism and dialogue. The Russian Orthodox Patriarch rejected the idea of such visit for various reasons. One main reason being that the Orthodox Church does not recognize the supremacy in Christendom of the Bishop of Rome (Pope) and in this case of a Pole over a Russian and how would that play politically in the popular minds in Russia to see such a visit happen. Jean-Paul II could have visited had he taken the role of the supplicant and drop the title of Pope for that of Bishop of Rome, knowing the man this would never happen.

The rest of the June visit continued after this flu episode but the pace was more leisurely.