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Tag Archives: Versailles

Music for Spring

20 Thursday May 2021

Posted by larrymuffin in Uncategorized

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Tags

Bourbon, France, history, palace, Spring, Versailles

Le Printemps what a lovely season, the weather is getting warmer by the day, Friday should be 22 C. which is Summer weather. This coming weekend is also the first official Long Weekend of Summer, the signal to open the cottage and start up the bar-b-q.

I was looking up recent photos of Versailles which re-opens today after months of being shut to all due to the pandemic restrictions in France. During these longs months the restorers of the Palace did a lot of work in various areas of the vast Chateau. This included a deep clean of various rooms and the return of furniture from the central national warehouse of important historical furniture of France. One piece in particular was the work desk of Louis XV made up of 20 different types of precious woods and of a secret mechanism operated with one key to close and lock it. This desk stayed in the bureau of the King until the revolution. It is now back where it belong, a magnificent piece of furniture. The restoration of the desk was paid for by Caterpillar France and Rolex, the desk has a two face clock which allows the king and his visitor on the other side to see the time. This wonderful piece of furniture was made in 1769, a real marvel and the clock works perfectly.

Many other private rooms or intimate rooms used by the King or Queen or other members of the Royal family have also been restored recently including carpets and drapes, all reproduce in the original fabric. This work is made possible due to archives and detailed descriptions, drawings and paintings and some piece of fabric which survived. You can see these rooms by appointment with a guide only. The rooms contain unique original artifacts of the period, rare books and porcelain and you would not want someone to bump into something.

The caveat is that Versailles you see today, the inside of the Palace evolved and is not what Louis XIV or Louis XV or even Louis XVI would have known, the palace was transformed and redecorated with each king and time and fashion dictate. Then the Palace was closed at the revolution, the furniture sold in most part to British and other European collectors for a pittance. Some was saved by Napoleon and by the return of the Bourbon Kings in 1814 under Louis XVIII and his brother Charles X and then their cousin Louis-Philippe remodelled wings of the palace where the apartments of the various Princes of the Kingdom were located into great galleries for his painting collection. So when visiting it is important to keep that in mind. Same for the gardens and le Petit and Grand Trianon or even le Hameau de la Reine which lost all its original furniture and is now decorated with Empire style furniture belonging to Empress Marie-Louise the second wife of Napoleon.

What has been recently recreated is the Grille Royale, which was the inner golden gate of the Cour d’Honneur which separated the first inner courtyard from a more sacred area which brought the special visitor within the proximity of the King. This golden gate was taken down at the revolution and was only restored starting in 2007, the work based on original drawings took 2 years to complete, cost 5 million Euros, is 80 meters long and weighs 15 tons, some 100,000 sheets of gold leaf was use to cover the gate.

The first gate on the street which allowed people to enter the first courtyard in the morning and at the back the Golden Gate which only opened for those the king wanted to see. Notice also the roof line, all in gold leaf and the window frames, all that was done in recent years and gives a wonderful impression of what it was like under Louis XIV when visitors came to Versailles they were suitably impressed. This is why the Palace was built to impress.

In this photo around 2000 you can see the roof before it was restored and the Cour d’Honneur being excavated, archeologists know from very early description of the time of Louis XIII when Versailles was nothing more than a Hunting Mansion, they wanted to see where the early foundation of the mansion and early palace were, finding many artifacts and the original traces of the old gate to the palace. There are large teams of artisans and art historians working on such projects. This is not the only palace in France where important restoration is taking place. Look at Chantilly the residence of the Duc d’Aumale.

Here we see two artisans applying gold leaf to the Crown of France on the roof top of the Chapelle Royale during the restoration of that building which lasted several years. You can also see the brown coating applied to the lead sculpture of the putti and window frame, this type of putty is to make the application of the gold leaf stick and prevent rust, a painstaking job but the final results are stunning.

here is the finished look of the roof top of the Chapelle Royale which is by far the tallest building of the palace, indicating that God is above the King.

Gold leaf and blue slate of the roof.

Here it is the final look as you arrive at Versailles looking to the right the Chapelle in sunlight, the blue of the slate of the roof and the gold leaf. The inside of the Chapelle also was restored including rebuilding the original 17th century organ which has a different more nasal sound than today’s instruments.

Another spectacular restoration

25 Wednesday Nov 2020

Posted by larrymuffin in Uncategorized

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Tags

Chapelle royale, France, Restoration, Versailles

The restoration of the Chapelle Royale of the Palace of Versailles (2018-2021) is coming to an end. Originally built in 1710 by Louis XIV it had never seen a complete restoration and after 1789 the palace was largely closed, furniture sold off and it became a white elephant. Other Kings like Louis Philippe tried to find a use for it and make some changes to interiors. After 1870 the Republican government wanted to use the palace for a parliament but that was short lived. The vast building was aging and had been built for a purpose by the original occupant the Sun King. For the last 100 years the palace was open as a neglected museum to a long ago age and it was used by the French Government for State visits and receptions. However in the last 50 years a vast and complex program of rehabilitation of the building and its gardens and fountains has been underway. Some of it paid for by the French State and some by private and public donations.

The Chapelle Royale is starting to emerge from its protective envelop.

Here are before and after pictures. The entire exterior has been cleaned, stone work repaired, the slate roof replaced and the lead roof ornaments including the cross have been recovered with their original gold leaf. Hundreds of specialists worked on this project.

Truly a splendid result to see. Work continues on other parts of the palace. Including recreating rooms with original furniture and recreating fabrics for upholstery and curtains. The organ of the Chapelle Royale was also completely rebuilt to give it its original sonority of 1710 which was very different from what modern organs produce.

Friends of Versailles

30 Wednesday Sep 2020

Posted by larrymuffin in Uncategorized

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Tags

art., artists, Chapelle royale, history, palace, Versailles

Friends groups exist everywhere and they are useful to raise funds and promote a site. Friends of Museums, Opera Houses, Theatres, Palaces, Gardens, etc. All have in common raising funds and promoting a place and attracting others to their project.

The Palace of Versailles was built between 1631 and 1715. Then after 1792 when it was closed by the Revolutionary government, it’s furniture and all its fixtures where sold off to foreign collectors. The Wallace Collection in London has an incredible array of furniture and objects from the Palace and it is all beautifully presented at Hertford House in Manchester Square, the former townhouse of the Seymour family, Marquesses of Hertford. It is named after Sir Richard Wallace, who built the extensive collection, along with the Marquesses of Hertford.

During the 19th century the Palace was remodelled to accommodate the French Senate and Legislative assembly. Great painting galleries were built from the former apartments of the Great Princes. Other buildings like Trianon and Le Hameau de la Reine were left to decay, this including the fountains and the extensive gardens and statuary.

When I first visited Versailles in 1969 with my parents, the palace looked a little sad and neglected. Yes, you could see the great rooms of the palace like la gallerie des glaces and the royal bedrooms, but they were empty of furniture, no candelabras or curtains on the windows. It was difficult to imagine how the King lived in such a place surrounded by a large number of Courtisans. The guided tours only gave the most perfunctory information mostly the major dates and details well known to all. My father remarked that the way the tour was given you had the impression that everything had been sent out for cleaning but would be back next week.

Les Amis du Chateau de Versailles is more than 100 year old association. In 1998 a group of wealthy Americans formed what is known as the American Friends of Versailles. Their goal was simple, raise funds to promote and support major restoration projects for the Palace and gardens and to support the French group of Les Amis, promoting friendship between France and the USA.

It goes without saying that any restoration work at Versailles requires experts in many fields, including archeologists, artists, historians and scholars plus artisan builders. The cost is always in the millions of Euros and the French Government and the European Union participate financially. Versailles is a UNESCO site.

The American Friends of Versailles being hosted at the Elysée Palace by Madame Macron, wife of the French President.

In the last few years restoration projects were done or are under way at Le Hameau de la Reine, which is this little farm built for Marie-Antoinette so she could play the Bergère and pretend she lived a simple life. The Royal Gate was rebuilt in front of the Chateau, it had been torn down at the Revolution, the roof top of the entire palace was re-gilded in gold leaf as it was in the 18th century. Major fountains in the park were totally restored. Now the Royal Chapel completed in 1715 is being restored and repaired, this multi-year project should be completed in the Spring of 2021. It is the first major restoration of the Chapel since its construction. The roof with its giant wood beams and slate roof had not been touched in 300 years.

These are only some of the numerous projects underway at Versailles. The last time I visited was 1989 for the sad anniversary of the so called French Revolution which now is called a Civil War by historians, at that time some furniture had returned and some restoration had been done.

In recent YouTube videos you can see the work being done on the Palace. It is nothing short of breathtaking. There is also an active program to recover some of the original furniture of the Palace, however the Wallace Collection in London is not parting with any of its royal furniture.

Restauration de la Chapelle Royale de Versailles.

On this 1 March

01 Sunday Mar 2020

Posted by larrymuffin in Music

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Tags

baroque, France, Louis XV, Rameau, Versailles

Sunday 1 March 2020, listening to this on Radio-Canada with Francis Reddy. Les Saisons de Francis has the best Sunday morning music always pleasant to set a good mood.

Rameau: Les fêtes d’Hébé / Act 2 / Scène 5 – La Victoire · Orchestre Les Arts florissants · William Christie Ombre de mon amant – French Baroque Arias with Anne Sofie Von Otter ℗ 2010 Deutsche Grammophon GmbH, Berlin

Portrait

12 Friday Jul 2019

Posted by larrymuffin in painting

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

France, NGC, Ottawa, salon de la paix, Versailles, Vigée-Lebrun

Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI had four children. They could not have been born at a more problematic time for the French royal family.

Marie-Thérèse Charlotte, known as Madame Royale was the only child, named after her grand-mother Empress Marie-Therese of Austria to survive the French revolution and reach adulthood. Eleven years old when the revolution erupted, in 1789, she was particularly close to her father the King.

Louis-Joseph, the first born son of the royal couple was spared the pains of revolution. He died of tuberculosis, at age seven, on the 4th of June, 1789. By all accounts a sweet child, the prince’s death added immeasurable grief to the lives of his parents the month before the revolution began.

After the death of his older brother, Louis-Charles, born in 1785 and sometimes referred to as Louis XVII, became dauphin. Subjected to the most cruel treatment by revolutionaries, the young prince was ten years old at his death in 1795.

Sophie-Beatrix was the family’s youngest child. Born in July of 1786, she died the following year – age eleven months – also of tuberculosis.

 

Because of the scandal of l’affaire du Collier, the ministers of the King ordered Vigée-Lebrun to do this propaganda painting, a tableau about family devotion and parental love. Though the Queen was cleared of any responsibility in the affair of the diamond necklace, the vicious press and a largely ignorant public hounded Marie-Antoinette. We know now that King Louis XVI brother, Prince Louis Stanislas Xavier, Comte de Provence  was also plotting against his brother, he was encouraging rumours and did little to help his unfortunate relatives. He was able to leave France with a false British Passport for a 23 year long exile around Europe, living on the charity of various Sovereigns. Returning to France in 1814 to become Louis XVIII.

This family portrait was painted at Versailles in what is today the Salon de la Paix at the end of the Galerie des Glaces, it was then a private salon used by the Queen. If you look closely at the painting you glimpse at the Gallerie des Glaces in the left corner. See picture below as it is today.

2000.hdsave.25-page7-doc2-salonpaix.jpg

Le Salon de la Paix, the Queen is seated to the right of the door, she is surrounded by her children. Her eldest son is pointing to the empty crib of his sister Sophie-Beatrix who died a few months before this painting was done. He is already sick with tuberculosis and will be dead in just a few months after this painting is completed. Truly a painting of tragedy. The cabinet in the background to the left of the tableau represents a strong box keeping locked up the jewels of the Queen. This is a reference to the alleged extravagance of the Queen. Marie-Antoinette herself only wears a pair of pearl hearings. This piece of furniture is almost in shadow and tucked away, not very important to the tableau, another message in this composition.

The composition of this painting also refers to a famous story in Greek antiquity of another mother and her children, who is asked what is most precious to her. Despite being wealthy, she presents her children as a reply, this is my wealth. This is the obvious symbolism of this painting. There is no doubt that the Queen was devoted to her children this was her wealth and this message had an impact on the French public at large. However by the time this painting was shown, it was too late. In 1793 at the 2 day trial of the Queen, she did not stand accuse or charge with any crime, the tribunal was divided on what to do. The revolutionaries were well aware that it would be difficult to pass a death sentence on Marie-Antoinette 37 yrs old. So without proof it was decided that she was guilty of treason, a farce by any judicial standard.

She was a mother and the public was against executing the mother with small children. On the day of her execution as she was brought to her public execution the streets were very silent and the mood of the crowd was sullen. The troops on hand were nervous and feared violence against the tribunal and the revolutionary government.

cb7f9ca09d04ef32b02fbadc6725ccbd.jpg

1787, Château de Versailles, la Reine Marie-Antoinette et ses enfants.

By Court painter to the Queen of France, Louise-Elizabeth Vigée-Lebrun

Louise Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun (also known as Madame LeBrun) was the most-famous female painter of the 18th century.  So impressed was Marie Antoinette with Vigée Le Brun’s work that she had the artist create more than thirty portraits of the Queen and her family. This large painting, remained at the Palace of Versailles after the fall of the Monarchy and only left the Palace 4 years ago for the first time ever to travel to the National Gallery of Canada in Ottawa for a retrospective exhibit of Lebrun’s paintings.

 

 

Books I read recently

23 Wednesday Sep 2015

Posted by larrymuffin in Uncategorized

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Tags

De Sade, France, literature, Nobility, Paris, Sadist, sex, Versailles, Writers, Writing

After the Jack Bush retrospective at the National Gallery of Canada which ended just a few days ago, I decided to read the biography of the wife of his agent Clement Greenberg who was probably the single most influential art critic in the twentieth century. Although he is most closely associated with his support for Abstract Expressionism, and in particular Jackson Pollock, his views closely shaped the work of many other artists, including Helen Frankenthaler, Morris Louis, and Kenneth Noland. His attention to the formal properties of art – color, line, space and so forth – his rigorous approach to criticism, and his understanding of the development of modern art – although they have all been challenged – have influenced generations of critics and historians. The book is written by Janice Van Horne, she is still alive living in New York, she’s 87.

The book is entitled a Complicated Marriage. In it Van Horne talks mostly about her life and Greenberg and their daughter are treated as an aside. She met Greenberg at a party, she was an Office girl and he picked her up and she simply fell in his bed. She was a follower, a hanger-on, that is pretty obvious from the beginning.

What is interesting is the description Van Horne gives of the wives of the great artists Greenberg represented and promoted. Van Horne did not like any of them and in most cases had difficult relations with them. The reason being she was an outsider and married Greenberg when he was already very much a well known impresario. She confesses she never liked Art much nor the Art scene, it bored her to tears, but she did not know what to do with her life so she hung around with the crowd her husband knew and loved. She was afraid of ending up like her Bennington College girlfriend living with some rich husband in Connecticut.

There were also several artists she did not like for various reasons, a very personal approach to it all. One who comes in for harsh criticism is Jackson Pollock, who killed himself driving his car drunk and also killed one of his passenger in 1956.  His wife Lee Krasner protected the image of Pollock even after his death and despite the fact she was estranged from him at the time. Van Horne really disliked Krasner because she never felt included in any encounter Greenberg had with Pollock and Krasner who were close friends of his. Van Horne claims that Krasner invented the myth of Pollock the great artist. According to her he was not so great, just a boozer and self-destructive. Another couple she did not like was Willem de Kooning and his wife Elaine, they were to full of themselves and snooty.

What you see is as an outsider, she is angry that they did not include her but all these people were artists and created art, lived it, it was their world, not hers. You want to ask her, what did you do to integrate the world of Greenberg and these artists besides feeling sorry for yourself. The only artist she seems to have liked was the Canadian Jack Bush and his wife Mabel, she was not an artist just a housewife, Van Horne liked that there was no threat or exclusion.

The book is about how her and you learn little about Greenberg.  All her life she was looking for who she wanted to become or could be, looking for happiness, fulfilment through countless affairs with other men and in various work projects so that she would not have to be with Greenberg and his artist friends all the time. There was much booze and drugs it was the sixties after all. At the end of the book I was wondering what she was trying to tell us and was it worth reading. Maybe for the gossip and the stories about the artists and their world in New York, it was a time period.

The other book I read or am still reading is the life of Donatien Alphonse François Marquis de Sade (1740-1814). No it is not what you might think on the contrary this is the book written by Gilbert Lely, first published in 1952 and in 1957 is an exhaustive research of the life of the Marquis de Sade. Lely read just about everything about the Marquis and his family, friends, and the complicated family life he had. Born in the circle of the Royal Family of France and raised with the Royal Children of the King, De Sade had a very privilege life surrounded by luxury.

He is described, because no portrait survives of him, as a short little man 5 foot 2, which is rather short, fat or plump, aquiline nose with dirty blond hair and blue eyes. He like all the Nobles at Court had a military career which was mostly made up of fine uniforms, medals and lots of parades. He was lazy, loved intrigues and from a very young age had a rather dissolute life of debauchery, which we are told was not uncommon amongst the powerful and wealthy who were bored at Court. He was married quickly by his father to another Noble family who were of inferior rank at Court but very wealthy, so their more modest rank in the complicated Court system of precedence and protocol could be overlooked because money talks. The author Gilbert Lely explains in detail what rank at Court meant and how very important it was to the Nobles who were constantly fighting , arguing and having intense discussions on who could do or not do this or that at Court depending on when their ancestors were elevated to a dignité by the King. Saint Simon who lived some decades before De Sade does speak of this in his memoirs. It is very tedious for modern readers but you do understand how deadly serious it was at the time. This sets the tone for the book and brings the reader into the world of the Court of France in the XVIIIth century.

Though De Sade became the most controversial writer of his time, most of his troubles came from the acrimonious relationship he had with his mother in law Madame la Présidente De Montreuil, her husband had been a Chief Magistrate (Président de la Cour du Roi). She came to hate him and to ensure her complete and cruel vengeance on him for disobeying her, neglecting his children and wife and for being a spendthrift used all of her influence at Court to destroy him.

De Sade in his writings simply made available to the common man the sexual practices of the Ancien Régime, most of which were often predatory on the common people who had no recourse and went largely unpunished. It was one thing to participate in orgies with people of your own class and to gossip about it or give parties where all manner of excesses where performed on commoners hired or tricked under the promise of favours or money for the event. It is known that Monsieur who was the brother of the Sun King Louis XIV was known for his penchant for very young Pages at Court or that Louis XV was a sexual pervert, that Voltaire had a long term incestuous affair with his young niece Marie-Louise Denis or that Montesquieu who wrote beautifully an enlighten text on the mistreatment of African slaves made his fortune on such trade or that Jean Jacques Rousseau who wrote about the care of children abandoned his 5 children at birth, not giving them a second thought.

Le Marquis de Sade wrote about all this debauchery in graphic details and his books were published became very popular and are to this day. That was his crime, he committed the horrible crime of betraying his Class the Nobles and showing them for what they were to the people. That was inexcusable and his Mother in law knew how to exploit this to her advantage to save her name and that of her relatives the De Sade Family. The author Gilbert Lely also researched the psychological portrait of De Sade and much has been written in the 19th century about his psychological make-up. He obviously enjoyed violence and found great personal gratification. Despite the fact that his writings created much employment for writers, literary analyst, university thesis and psychologists, De Sade comes across as a deeply deranged man who French Society at times accepted and praised and then shunned and despised, politics, societal changes, taste and attitudes all played a part.

Le Marquis de Sade was freed by the French Revolution but imprisoned again because the Revolutionary found him a little too free in his thinking. He was let go yet again when Napoleon gained absolute power in a Coup d’Etat but not for long since even the Emperor thought De Sade’s morals a bad example on France. Needless to say that Napoleon and Josephine were not puritain and much documentation remains about their own sexual debauchery.

Seen in this light, I think that in our World today le Marquis de Sade would be on You Tube giving advice and invited on shows like Ellen or The View. One only has to think of the popularity amongst the Bourgeoisie in North America with the novel Fifty Shades of Grey to understand the hypocrisy of the World.

cuisine-et-service-de-table-set-de-table-fragonard-les-hasards-3290007-fragonard-swing-9467e_570x0

L’escarpolette by Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732-1806)

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