Winter perspectives

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Canada., Charlottetown, Fanningbank, PEI, winter

Today Sunday is a bright sunny day and the temperature is mild for Winter at -5C, in the sunshine you feel warm. Though there is now snow on the ground since 17 January, it is a mild Winter with the exception of the wind.

The entrance to Fanningbank the Official Residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of PEI.

In the countryside at dusk

New Year activities

Tags

2018, Charlottetown, Fanningbank, levee, New Year, PEI

For New Years Eve we went down the street to the Haviland Club which is an old Club in Charlottetown, at the corner of Water and Haviland street with views of the Hillsborough river, once a grand private residence built in 1866 by Mrs Esther Lowden in the Italianate style. She was a widow, her husband had been a prominent ship builder. At her death in 1896 her family leased the house to the USA Consulate, the American Consul  was Delmer J. Vail. At the time of the closing of the US Consulate around 1917 all the expensive mahogany furniture and carpets were sold at auction. For a few years the house was rented out to various tenants. Then in 1932 it became an Officers Mess, being across the street from the PEI Regiment HQ was ideal, the Royal Canadian Navy and the Royal Canadian Air Force also had its mess on the premises. Finally in 1997 it became a private Club. The Club has an ornate decor of the period with marble fireplaces and grand views, wood paneling and ornate ceilings.

Quite a few members were present and we spent the night drinking and eating, we also decided to become members on the spot.

This morning, New Year’s Day I had to be up early, I was on duty at Fanningbank, the Residence of the Lieutenant Governor for the New Year’s day Levee, the 40th, the first one open to the public was in 1978. My first station was as greeter at the door, though I was near one of the fireplaces, it was a cold spot, the door opening and closing and the temperature outside with the wind chill was -25C. Some 800 people came through that door in 90 minutes. Amongst the general public, quite a few dignitaries, politicians, the Premier wearing is clan kilt, Leader of the other political parties, the commanders of the army, navy and air force, the Archbishop, the President of the University, the CEO of the Art Centre, etc.

I got to shake hands with about 500 people as they came in and greeted them before they proceeded into the receiving room to shake hands with the Lieutenant Governor. I was asked how do you address the L.G., a few men were told to remove their hats out of respect for the Sovereign’s representative. Two people asked me to take pictures of them, which I politely declined, too busy with the crowd. We had also a 15 member string orchestra playing which gave a very nice atmosphere to the event. Once past the L.G. people would then proceed into the dining room of the residence for cake and refreshments and out they went. It all went very well considering the numbers, many were making their first visit to the residence and were impressed by the surroundings. Lots of comments on the Christmas decorations and the house.

On my way home other levees were taking place, at City Hall, at the Legislature, at the PEI Regiment HQ, I was too tired to go to any other, pretty sure I would have met the same crowd making the rounds. Everyone comes first to Fanningbank to see the L.G.

I got lunch out of it, the cook made Fricot, which is a clear broth of carrots, potatoes, onion and celery with big pieces of shredded chicken, it was quite good and hit the spot. It was served to all of us volunteers and Aide de Camp in the private dining room of the L.G. in the meantime Her Honour was gone to another function, today for public officials it is a very busy day, I would not want to be in their shoes, even if you are chauffeured around.

Tonight a quiet night at home, Salmon steaks for dinner.

 

Levee madness

Tags

Canada., Charlottetown, Fanningbank, levee, New Year's day, PEI

When we lived in Ottawa the only levee in the City was the one at Rideau Hall, the Residence of H.E. the Governor General where the public was invited to come pay their respects to Her Majesty’s representative.

Here in Charlottetown it is quite another affair, it starts at 8am and goes on all over the Island Province until 8 or 9 pm. It starts at Fanningbank the Residence of the Lieutenant Governor who is Her Majesty’s representative in PEI. Then the Premier who is the head of government has one, the mayor, the Colonel of the PEI Regiment, the Commander of the Canadian Navy, the Speaker of the Legislature, various other officials etc…  You get to shake hands, exchange pleasantries and get a drink and something to eat.  Usually people spend about 10 minutes and move on to the next one. Some people go or try to go to as many as possible in the day. Just in Charlottetown there must be at least 40. You can even hold one at your house and be registered officially so that people can follow the calendar for the day. We thought of doing the Meet Nicky and Nora the Hounds from Hell  Levee at our house, it would be novel. To see the full list go to ruk.ca  Peter Rukavina is my neighbour and for more than a decade now has compiled the list of the Levee in Charlottetown.

A Levee is an old tradition in Canada going back to the 17th century.

The word levee (from French, noun use of infinitive lever, “rising”, from Latin levāre, “to raise”) originated in the levée du soleil (rising of the sun) of King Louis XIV (1643–1715). It was his custom to receive his male subjects in his bedchamber just after arising, a practice that subsequently spread throughout Europe.

In the 18th century the levee in Great Britain and Ireland became a formal court reception given by the sovereign or his/her representative in the forenoon or early afternoon. In the New World colonies the levee was held by the governor acting on behalf of the monarch. Only men were received at these events. Women were presented in the evening at court.

It was in Canada that the levee became associated with New Year’s Day. The fur traders had the tradition of paying their respects to the master of the fort (their government representative) on New Year’s Day. This custom was adopted by the governor general and lieutenant governors for their levees.

The first recorded levee in Canada was held on January 1, 1646, in the Chateau St. Louis by Charles Huault de Montmagny, Governor of New France from 1636 to 1648. In addition to wishing a happy new year to the citizens the governor informed guests of significant events in France as well as the state of affairs within the colony. In turn, the settlers were expected to renew their pledges of allegiance to the Crown.

The levee tradition was continued by British colonial governors in Canada and subsequently by both the governor general and lieutenant governors. It continues to the present day.

As mentioned, the levee was historically a male preserve but during World War II levees were attended by female officers of the Canadian Armed Forces. Since then levees have been open to both women and men.

As has the levee itself, refreshments served at levees have undergone changes (both in importance and variety) over the years.

In colonial times, when the formalities of the levee had been completed, guests were treated to wine and cheeses from the homeland. Wines did not travel well during the long ocean voyage to Canada. To make the cloudy and somewhat sour wine more palatable it was heated with alcohol and spices. The concoction came to be known as le sang de Caribou (“caribou blood”).

Under British colonial rule the wine in le sang du caribou was replaced with whisky (which travelled better). This was then mixed with goat’s milk and flavoured with nutmeg and cinnamon to produce an Anglicized version called “Moose Milk”. Today’s versions of Moose Milk, in addition to whisky (or rum) and spices may use a combination of eggnog and ice cream, as well as other alcoholic supplements. The exact recipes used by specific groups may be jealously guarded secrets.

I have had both Caribou blood which is mighty potent and Moose Milk, great Canadian drinks, there is no better way to start the New Year. This year I will be volunteering at Fanningbank the Residence of our Lieutenant Governor. A big crowd is expected that day.

Levee New Year’s Day at Fanningbank in Charlottetown.

 

Events

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Acadie, Charlottetown, Christmas, Christmas markets, Fanningbank, Haviland Club, Macphail homestead, Noël, PEI, Port La-Joye

Well  the whirlwind of events continues, with Christmas approaching. There is no war on Christmas here, decorations and Christmas theme events are everywhere, numerous Christmas Fairs, so many in fact that you can easily chose which one you want to go to and which one to skip. Concerts, choirs performing, parties of all sorts.

We started with a Christmas dinner on 2 Dec at the Homestead of Sir Andrew MacPhail in Orwell. We reserved for the dinner because the capacity is under 30, the Seasonal food was wonderful, everything they serve is from the farm and garden and the price of the dinner was very reasonable.  The Fair at the MacPhail Homestead was so beautiful. I think what I like about the Homestead is how this once private home has kept its character as if Sir Andrew was just about to walk in on you, there is no crowds ever. The Fair to raise funds for their operations, we bought a beautiful Queen size wool blanket from MacAusland’s Woollen Mills of PEI located in Bloomfield in Prince County about 90 minutes West from Charlottetown.

the tree on the enclosed veranda of the MacPhail home.

Stollen, marzipan potato and jam by Sabina

The dinner table in the old dining room of the Sir Andrew in front of the fireplace with of course the oil portrait of Sir Andrew in his academic robes from McGill University in Montreal.

At the Homestead we met Sabina Schönknecht from Murray Harbour North who has beehives, makes preserves, Stollen at Christmas and also sells Marzipan as a treat and makes her own dog biscuit. In the Summer she also has chickens but they are European not North American, meaning they are black. See Lucky Bee Homestead on Facebook. Sabina is originally from Dresden in Germany a city we know well. This Season we also went to the one at the Eastlink Centre just East of our home and the Farmer’s on Queen Street just up a few steps from us.

Many of the Fairs are organized to raise funds for an historic site like the MacPhail Homestead or for a charity. There is a lot of poverty amongst our small population of 150,000 on the Island and this time of the year, there are loads of food drives organized by social clubs, the National Broadcaster CBC, Farmer’s, businesses like Receiver Coffee Co. and Churches. They always manage to feed and provide Christmas cheer to many poor Islanders.

Then because I work as a volunteer at the Official Residence of our Lieutenant-Governor we were invited to dinner at Fanningbank, the house is named after General Sir Edmund Fanning who in 1789 reserved 100 acres of parkland for the exclusive use of the Crown. The house itself is in the Palladian-Greek revival Style built in 1834.

Our new Lieutenant-Governor H.H. Antoinette Perry is an Acadian from Tignish, up West. She is also a musical teacher and plays both the piano and the organ regularly, she loves to have the guests sing while she plays on the piano. When we meet we always speak in French.

Will had a birthday and we had guests for the event, he got some pretty impressive gifts. He really cannot complain.

We also went to a Service of Lessons and Carols at St-Peter’s Anglican Cathedral on Rochford Square. It was in the old style Anglican Service and the Lieutenant-Governor came always accompanied by her Aide-de-Camp in full uniform. There was a small buffet afterwards and we had the most splendid Smoke Salmon from Lord’s in St-John New Brunswick.

Now we are looking at Xmas Eve dinner and Xmas day luncheon in Vernon Bridge at friends. For New Year’s Eve I was thinking we could go to the Haviland Club which is at the end of Water street, again steps away from our home, so we can drink and celebrate and walk home.

The Haviland Club in Charlottetown, a former private residence built in the Italianate style.

This Wednesday 13 December marks a very sad anniversary in PEI, that of the violent deportation of the Acadians in 1758. Thousands died at the hands of British troops who were sent to occupy the Island then named Saint-Jean. It was an early episode of ethnic cleansing and the Mi’kMaq people did not fair better. Every year there is a ceremony at Port La-Joye (Fort Amherst) to commemorate the deportation of the Acadians who left the Island on boats often un-sea worthy. Two of those ships Duke William and Violet carrying more than 600 people sank on their way to England, the Captains, Officers and crews were saved but all passengers/prisoners perished.

The photo shows pilgrims at Port La-Joye which is the entrance to the harbour of Charlottetown and faces the Strait of Northumberland. The flag in the photo is the Acadian National Flag with the yellow star Stella Maris. Many of those who survived the horrors of British occupation returned after 1765, some hid in remote areas of the Island in what is called the Evangeline region (Prince County).

 

 

Walk on a Sunny cold day

Tags

Beaconsfield house, Charlottetown, Fanningbank, light house, PEI, sun, Victoria Park, winter

This Winter we have so far many cold but brightly sunny days, cold around -6C or +8C it alternates depending on the wind South East or North East.

There are many places to walk in Charlottetown, the downtown area is quite small, 6 blocks by 9 blocks. with green squares and parks here and there. Then we also have the 50 acre Victoria Park facing the entrance to the Straits with 3 rivers coming together.

I took a walk and some photos of the area yesterday, lots of people walking their dogs.

The opening into the Straits of Northumberland with on the right side of the photo Rocky Point where Port La-Joye or Fort Amherst is located, the first establishment before Charlottetown was built. Even today a beautiful spot if a bit isolated.

One of the lighthouses in the area to guide ships, this one at the entrance to the North River. They are automated.

Beaconsfield, a folly built by in 1877 by James and Edith Peakes, a very prominent family of immense wealth. They did not enjoy their house long, James went bankrupt and left town moving to Vancouver some 6000 Km away, I suppose he took the new train across Canada, to work in a bar, am not sure what happened to Edith but I believe she stayed in town. The house was re-possessed by Henry Cundall, who had other homes in town, who moved into it in 1883 with his sisters Penelope and Millicent. It is a beautiful museum today and gives a good idea of how the affluent lived then.

Fanningbank, the Official Residence of the Lieutenant Governor of the Province of Prince Edward Island since 1834. I do volunteer work here, I just completed the updating of the notes for the guides who give tours in the Summer months. It had to be completely redone, covering each room, the furniture, the paintings and portraits, the oriental rugs, etc plus the history in a short format in both Official Languages, 20 pages in French and 20 in English. It took me 3 months and I am quite happy with my work.

As you walk the boardwalk you will pass in front of the Residence, the thick hedge is higher than it looks, Fanningbank is next door to Beaconsfield house.

The Prince Edward Battery (1799) just to the West of Fanningbank in a defensive position facing the entrance to the Harbour of Charlottetown, British regulars and Colonial Militia until 1864 manned the site. The stone powder house (1866) was just restored completely.

It is a nice walk, fresh air, bright Sun, just fun all around thing to do. I have taken our Nora for a walk here, she liked it, lots of smells and wants to jump into the river, roll in the grass and chase the crows. I know crazy Wire Hair Dachshund.

 

 

 

Last day

Tags

Canada., Charlottetown, Fanningbank, Maritimes, PEI, River Clyde, Weather

Living in the Maritimes and here on this Province Island you learn about the weather and you also appreciate that the weather here is very different from Central Canada (Ontario-Quebec). The Weather Network and other weather services are located in Toronto and the weather bulletin reflect that fact. You usually get the weather of Ontario and Quebec first then the weather in B.C. and Alberta. They don’t mention the rest of the country too much if at all. One day recently I sent them a message asking, when are we getting the Maritimes weather? The testy response was, we’re getting to it!

Our weather is strongly influenced by the Ocean and the winds coming in from the coastal areas up the US seaboard or from the North Atlantic. So if you are living in Central Canada you get a skewed picture of what is happening in the Maritimes. Just a week ago weather reports mentioned heavy snowfall in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, high winds in Cape Breton. Here on the Island is was sun and clouds and some wind, we never saw the storm.

What we do have is hurricane strength winds 90-150 Km per hour which can last for hours. If it is just the wind and no snow that is not too bad though electricity can go out and buildings can be damaged by the wind, this is what happened yesterday when 15,000 people lost electrical power due to the wind and the 12 Km long Sea bridge had to close for a few hours. This is not reported outside of PEI and we get lumped in weather report with the rest of the Maritimes. Only if you go to CBC PEI do you get an accurate picture. However we do cope quite easily, a storm day is decreed and every one stays homes, time to read and do things around the house. No one stresses over the fact that you cannot get to work or to school, every one gets a day off.

Here is a view from the Garden of Hope of the Clyde River in New Glasgow, just 20 minutes away from Charlottetown. One of my favourite areas to visit, the garden of Hope is quite beautiful. A typical Winter scene in PEI.

St-Dunstan RC Basilica up our street, the bells are being re-installed after being out of service for 38 years. Special citizen funded project led by historians and business people.

Prince Street seen from my window on this 31 December morning.

Morning view of Water Street looking West from my window.

Glass balloon we got as a gift in one of the kitchen windows

So for New Year’s Eve on the menu on the Island most people do a medley of Seafood, Oysters are very good at this time of the year, Lobster is also a favourite.

Tomorrow is the Levee and we will probably go to Fanningbank to shake hands with the Lieutenant Governor and wish him a Happy New Year. In fact you can spend the day doing the rounds of all the Levee to shake hands with the Premier, the Mayor, Police Chief, the Fire Chief,the Bishop, numerous Clubs like the Irish Benevolent Society, etc… Hundreds of people will do the rounds, it’s an Island tradition.

Fanningbank, the Official Residence of the Lieutenant Governor of PEI.

Buona Vigilia di Capodanno a tutti voi!

A project

Tags

Canada., Charlottetown, Fanningbank, Government House, PEI

About one month ago I undertook to re-write the notes the guides use as reference at Government House during public visits. The notes cover briefly the history of the Residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of PEI and its contents.

As a docent at Fanningbank, I looked at the notes I was given and in touring the house on my own I discovered discrepancies. So I endeavoured to re-write them after reading an excellent book by Reg Porter on the Official Residence published just a few years ago. I had to do a lot of research on the paintings, the oriental Persian carpets, the furniture and the Governors etc. In the process I discovered many things about the history of the Island, the first families and the various governors in the last 250 years. It’s a fascinating story and much fun to research.

The house has had a varied existence, first thought of in 1795 construction does not actually start until 1832. Then in 1917 at the height of the First World War the Lieutenant Governor vacates the place and it is turned into a convalescing hospital for veterans returning from Europe. By 1922 no one seems to know what to do with the place and the Government of the time looks at options for the building, one being demolition. In 1930 a program of renovations is undertaken and the Lieutenant-Governor returns to live. In 1970 the house comes under a Government Committee to oversee it’s management. It is declared a National Historic site in 1977.

The house is the home of the Lieutenant-Governor and is used daily for functions related to the Office of the Lieutenant-Governor, who receives distinguished guests. The Royal Family also uses it when in PEI, their Pied-à-terre as they say.  There are 10 acres of gardens all around and the house looks out on the Hillsborough River where it opens unto the Straits of Northumberland and the mainland. Originally there was 100 acres of land since a farm was also attached to the property. Today this is part of Victoria Park and is open to the public a beautiful spot for a walk.

 

 

new job

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Fanningbank, PEI

Well when I retired some years ago I promised myself I would not sit at home and do nothing or watch TV all day. Well the part about watching TV all day was not difficult to do since I do not own a Television set and can’t watch it. So I started working as a volunteer at National Museums, when we moved to PEI I started to work at the Art Gallery  of the Confederation Centre for the Arts.

This Summer I took some friends to visit the Official Residence of the Lieutenant Governor of PEI. This is a Vice-Regal appointment and the holder of the Office is Commander in Chief of the Province and the personal representative of the Sovereign.  So I made enquiries about getting a volunteer job at Government House.

In the British Imperial system, governors were appointed to run a territory in the name of the Sovereign and large mansions were built to house them. In Charlottetown in 1769 the first Governor was appointed to administer this new territory. The Island was then called Ile Saint-Jean or St-John Island it had been a French territory since 1604. The end of the Seven Year War in Europe between England, Prussia VS France, Austria, saw the large possessions in North America pass to England.

About 100 acres was set aside for the Residence of the Governor in 1789 by General Edmund Fanning, thus the name Fanningbank for the area but construction would not start before 1832.

In this case too they are looking for Volunteers, so I met with the staff of the Lieutenant Governor at Fanningbank and am now a docent.

Fanningbank or Government House in Charlottetown, Official Residence of the Lieutenant Governor of PEI

One of the first task is to familiarize myself with the house, the various rooms, the period furniture and paintings. The house saw many important events in the history of the Island but also of Canada. There have been numerous world figures come through the place and many visits by members of the Royal Family and by the Sovereign.

The house is in a neo-classical style much in favour during the Georgian period with beautiful Doric and Ionic columns. I am doing much research now to prepare for visitors and understand the history and learn about the furniture, paintings, etc. Some of the original furniture comes from England and was made by the same manufacturer who supplies Royal Residences like Windsor Castle.

I undertook the project of re-writing the notes given to docents about 10 pages of information on the house and covering many topics.

So I keep busy with all my projects.

A walk on the boardwalk

Tags

Beaconsfield, Charlottetown, Fanningbank, PEI

Living in the old 500 block section of Charlottetown means you are near the water, usually within 5 blocks, one popular area is Victoria Park and Fanningbank. We are only 4 blocks away so we decided to walk over on this sunny day. We were waiting for our appointment to view a house just around here. All the houses in this area are from the period 1797 to 1835, either stone or wood clapboard. Here are some photos of what we saw.

On the water’s edge Beaconsfield once a private home now a museum it is across the street from Fanningbank.

Fanningbank the Official Residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Prince Edward Island.

The view is the entrance of the Hillsborough river the harbour of Charlottetown, in the very far distance the strait of Northumberland and the mainland, New Brunswick. The strip of land on the right of the photo is Rocky Point and Port La-Joye the old French fort.

As we continued walking on the boardwalk we come to the North river and its light house

The river here is frozen but the ice is thin and cracked everywhere, not safe to step on at all. The shore is also rocky with the red sandstone everywhere, the earth is also red and the mud is a dark red colour.

Some of the beautiful homes of the neighbourhood. It would be nice to live in this area, who knows?